On my Duster it has an aluminum collar inside. (I think) What ever was holding it in place let go. Mine jammed in 1st a lot. I am curing that with the 833OD swap
IIRC there is some bronze bushings in there on the rod ends?
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| 2 part question for 3 on the tree shifter (manual tranny) https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32880 |
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| Author: | SPWC [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 2 part question for 3 on the tree shifter (manual tranny) |
First part of my 2 part question about 3 on the tree is about the shifter. The shifter is very sloppy and has no definite"points" as reference to what gear your in.How can I tighten this sloppyness up where the rods attach to the column at the firewall? Are new bushings available? Ive heard of putting metal washers in place of the worn bushings. Anyone else done this and how successful of an operation was it? Did it tighten things up? Im asking because the previous owner told me at times the linkage would jam up in between gears(probably between 2nd and reverse) and the car would stall.To remedy this he would have to wedge a 2x4 between the clutch pedal and the steering wheel and have to dink around with the rods at the column under the hood at the firewall. 2nd part of my question is pretty simple. In order for me to take the key out of the ignition,the shifter has to be in a certain gear. Is that 2nd or Reverse. Again I cant tell because the shifter linkage on my Swinger is pretty sloppy. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is a tension adjustment at the base of the steering column, in the form of a plastic collar held to the inside of the bottom of the column (in the engine bay, above the steering box input shaft coupler) by bolts sticking into the collar from the outside of the column. The bolt holes in the column are slotted and angled. Loosen the bolts, grasp them and use them as a handle to rotate that plastic collar such that it moves up (rearward towards the firewall) in the column. Hold it in that position and then retighten the bolts. See if that doesn't take the slack out of the mechanism. And you'll definitely want a factory service manual for the car. |
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| Author: | crash922108 [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 2 part question for 3 on the tree shifter (manual trann |
[quote="SPWC"] Ive heard of putting metal washers in place of the worn bushings. Anyone else done this and how successful of an operation was it? Did it tighten things up? SPWC I didn't replace the bushings with washers, I took the cotter pin out down at the trans and placed a washer there then put the cotter pin back in. That tightened things up pretty good but not like new |
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| Author: | 74dartcustom [ Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | yes |
i have had amazing luck with removing the slopp in the column shifter rods by putting metal washers between the cotter pins and the arms.. try to remove all of the slop out of the arms.. but remember to tight can be bad because the motor needs to move and so does the trans and so on if you need a picture please message me i will take a picture of everything i have done to accomplish this..... |
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| Author: | 74dartcustom [ Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | also |
more than likely toward you and up is reverse!! that is how you remove the key from the ignition.. it can be made to do both reverse and second.. the guy who i bought the car off did it that way.... but i took my car to school had my teacher help me fix the slop with the washers and the we just set it back to factory with reverse only being able to remove the key....so yeah reverse.... |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
On my Duster it has an aluminum collar inside. (I think) What ever was holding it in place let go. Mine jammed in 1st a lot. I am curing that with the 833OD swap IIRC there is some bronze bushings in there on the rod ends? |
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