I bought an 1980 slant from my dad and want to put it on my dodge truck. As you might have guessed it is a 1981 single bbl. It has no power and i was wondering what would be the biggest problems i would have to worry about while installing this system. I know what i have to get to make it work but also because it is an aluminum intake i was wondering if these were as common as the steel intakes and was wondering witch one would be better to use. Also when this system is on and correctly adjusted what am i looking at for power increase if there is much of one. And would steel tube headers help out too if i installed them with this system for an increase in power.

Thanks in advance,

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Joe Reusch

1981 Dodge D-150 Slant Sickness

I have a cheesy factory intake for the Dart. I just need to see what is the best way to seal/paint it.

Would think it warms up quicker than iron

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Does this truck have the Lean burn computer set up? If so, that is part of the problem contributing to a lack of power. I would suggest looking to see if it is still stock or if it has been modified or upgraded yet. I would start with the ignition system first and get that up to speed such as a recurved distributor and HEI mod. The one barrel can work pretty well with a bigger jet. The aluminum one that is not welded is my favorite. It does warm up quick!
The Super six is worth about 20 HP per the Doctor Dodge.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I have changed the truck over to standard ignition, when i bought the truck it had the lean burn crap on it (Dumbest thing ive ever seen, nothing but problems). It is just a stock Slant distributor. But the reason i want to put super six on it is i want more power going uphill and pulling a trailer. But is this going to be alright or should i get a high output coil and a Pertronix system put on it?

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Joe Reusch

1981 Dodge D-150 Slant Sickness

Questions-

(1) When you say standard ignition, do you mean points or standard electronic ignition?

(2) did you leave the lean burn computer controlled carburetor on there?



Just adding a hot coil won't help much at this point. If your engine has points then Pertronix might be a good idea, but if your engine has standard electronic ignition Pertronix won't work.

I would start with the basics. Check for timing chain stretch. Do a compression check. What type of car did the replacement distributor come out of? It might not have the best spark advance curve for a truck. Is the vacuum advance pod on the distributor hooked up properly and working? What is your base timing set at? If the transmission is an automatic, have you checked the kickdown adjustment?

I would try and get the current setup running good before adding a two barrel carburetor swap to the mix. Try and limit the variables of what might be wrong.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

81dodged150,

What kind of speeds are you getting under load? (mph) and how much is the load? (pounds).

What is your rear end ratio?
Is this a four speed transmission?

Reed is right on, you may need to fix some other things first like timing, distributor recurve, spark plug wires, plugs, etc.

I have driven some pretty strong SL6 trucks and we pulled some pretty big loads over the mountain pass at 50 to 60 mph.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Surprisingly the little slant does OK at towing.
We had a beat early 80's full size Dodge van and it pulled a 16-foot car hauler loaded with our 1970 HEMI Charger 4-speed on it just fine.
It was a 375 mile one way trip with no mountains to climb over.

I do not remember if it was a 1 or 2-bbl.

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1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-spd, Dana 60)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (4-spd, 8.75")
1973 Plymouth Duster (225, auto, 8.25")
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 2wd (5.9L, auto, Dana 60)

If you are trying to maximize torque and pulling power, you may want to stick with the one barrel. However, a two barrel was rated to increase horsepower by ten horsepower over stock.

Keep in mind that most slant sixes driven on the street rarely see above 3000 RPM. A one barrel carburetor in good shape can meet the airflow demands of most slant sixes in these conditions. If you start modifying the engine, you really need to be clear as to what your intended use of the motor is, and then build the motor accordingly. Sure there are four barrel intakes out there, but you need to match the cam, compression ratio, valves, and carburetor to really get a good performing combination.

I am not trying to discourage you, but before you start throwing parts at the engine you should really determine what exactly is wrong with the motor and what exactly has been done to it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.