pull my engine i got the radiator, pullys, fan, carb, alt, exhaust pipe, driveshaft, and manifoldes off how should i aproach this should i use the manifold studs or make a plate to bolt to my block tko and pull it that way

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

The best way to lift the motor is to attach a chain or other lifting device to the two bolt holes in the head between the valve cover and manifolds. If you use a chain, put the hook for you hoist closer to the front hole than the rear, otherwise the motor will tip badly.

An alternate method, and the one I usually use, is to pull the head with the motor in the car and then attack a chain to the alternator bracket hole in the block and on of the engine to transmission braces on the driver's side of the block. Hook the chain in the middle, but a little closer to the alternator hole, and you should be good.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I always use the rear most hole on top by the valve cover and the hole in the front of the head for the alternator adjuster strap. If you make the chain tight enough you can pull the motor with the hood on the car.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I've heard this and am pretty sure it's right: the two holes in the head between the valve cover and the manifolds were put there by the factory soley for the purpose of pulling the motor, and if what I have heard is correct, the forward-most hole is for pulling the motor with no bell or trans and the rear-most hole is for pulling the motor with the bell (and maybe the trans, too?) I pulled my motor using the rear-most hole and the alternator bracket hole in the thermo housing, but put it back in using only the forward-most hole and the motor was pretty level. Kinda strange lifting the entire motor by one bolt, but it worked fine.

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Stephan Nelle

kinda risky too, i would not have attempted that without a proper alloy eyebolt with the jamnut torqued to spec, and even then with a second chain as a spotter.

i pulled my engine as a complete assembly including manifolds using the rear stud-well and the alternator adjuster stud-well without problems. that would about center the hook over the front stud-well.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.