This is a picture of the Felpro Rear Main Seal Set



Reading Doug's article, I can account for the two half-circles and the two L-shaped pieces.
Where do the other pieces go?

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm

Can you replace the oil pan gasket and rear main seal without replacing the timing cover gasket/seal?

I am attempting this with engine in car, maybe (hopefully) in 45 degree temp indoors.

The long pieces are the side seals that will go in the retainer while it is out. The 2 little tube thingies are guides that go in the bolt holes on some retainers, not all will use them. I have no clue what the little plastic knife does.

The pan gasket set should have both end seals in it. You will not have to replace the timing cover gasket or front crank seal.

Good luck doing it in car. It is a pain in the @zz on a motor stand.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I could never figure-out why the SL6 main seal set includes the two long, white "chipboard" pieces... those are used along the sides of the Mopar big block main seal cap, there is no place for them in the SL6 cap.
It could be that FelPro has "commonized" this main seal kit to cover both the SL6 and the B/RB engines, the set of parts shown will seal either engine type.
May-be one of the Big Block Mopar owners can let us know if they are getting the "extra" rubber "L" pieces in their gasket sets, thoses are the side seals for the SL6 main seal cap.

The plastic tubes install in the bolts shank holes at the cap to block parting line, the idea is to keep oil from getting into the bolt hole, then leaking past the bolt head... and out of the engine. I never use these, instead, I use a small dab of silicone sealer on the cap the block faces and under the heads of the cap bolts.

Ok, that leaves the little plastic "paddle"... it is better called a "shoehorn" because you use it between the block and the rubber "L" piece to help guide the cap assembly into the block recess. You "load" the seal half and "L" pieces into the cap and cock it to start one side into the recess, then use the plastic "shoehorn" to help slip the other "L" piece past the sharp block edge and into the recess. Again, a little silicone sealer helps to "lube" the parts and slip them into place.
DD

As Doc said, the kit has been commonized with the big block.

I will strongly echo his use of a modest amount of silicone on the mating surfaces, and I also use a small amount between the back side of the seal and their mating surfaces. I've had a couple of big blocks leak in that area and they are a pain to install, so I now do it every time.

Thanks.
My car is safely out of the snow in its garage, but it is at the bottom of a steep twisted driveway next to a concrete wall.

Nothing else to do for a couple weeks.
I just spent the afternoon reinforcing (our only) cracked aluminum snow shovel. That was fun. I knew I got that pop riveter at Harbor Freight for something.

Two feet of snow covers the driveway and everything else.
It's beautiful now, but freezing rain/snow showers is forecast for Xmas.

A pain in the a$$ underneath my car would be a welcome change of pace.

Everyone in town is out of snow shovels and salt.
Just need to hitch a ride to Napa tomorrow.

What's the best gasket sealer to get at Napa?
You mean the back side of the main seal?
I am doing it without removing the crank, so maybe this would help slide the upper one around, if it doesn't get tacky too soon.


One other question:
I am planning to remove the radiator and unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine with a floor jack, then put blocks of wood under mounts.

Do I also need to loosen/remove some transmission mounts too, before I lift/tilt the engine?
I have a 63 factory service manual, so it would help if you use the terminology they use.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end