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New Alternator/Dual field conversion https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33073 |
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Author: | GENT [ Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | New Alternator/Dual field conversion |
I need to convert my slant to a dual field alt. and electronic voltage regulator. How do I do this and what will I need? Whats the best year of car to ask for an alternator for? Any links or advise would help Where is the best place to buy a remanufactured alternator? |
Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:55 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
H'mm. Why do you "need" to do this conversion? Most people do it because they want to. There's nothing such as a good place to buy a remanufactured alternator, because remanufactured alternators, like most other remanufactured parts, are trash. Get a new alternator instead; you can get one from Old Car Parts Northwest. Regulator: Standard-BlueStreak VR-125 or NAPA Echlin VR-38 is a solid pick unless you want an adjustable one, in which case get a Transpo #C8313, should be obtainable via any good local auto electrical house or you can order it online at Weitzel's or here. Wire the regulator and alternator in accord with any '70+ Mopar wiring diagram. You can get the correct rubber-booted socket plug for the electronic voltage regulator from NAPA as an Echlin # VRC-38. Make a ground loop of 12ga wire from the alternator housing (many of them have a "GRD" hole or stud on the back) to the voltage regulator base and from there to the battery negative terminal. If you install an alternator of substantially greater output capacity than standard, you will need to be concerned about the ammeter; see here. |
Author: | GENT [ Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:54 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I need to do it because my alt. is going out and I am converting to electronic ignition. EI+mechanical regulator= nono.Thank you for the info. ![]() |
Author: | Reed [ Wed Dec 31, 2008 11:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
The easiest thing to do in your situation is find a parts car that has EI and a dual field alternator. Start removing the engine wiring at the alternator. if you remove all the components and unwrap the charging circuit and ignition circuit from the taped up loom, you will find that both circuit eventually winnow down to the ignition 1 and ignition 2 wires going into the firwell bulkhead. These are usually a thick brown and a thick blue wire. I have done several installation of fdual field and EI systems where all I had to do was swap the these two wires into the firewall bulkhead and bolt the new components on. This is by far the easiest route to upgrade to dual field and EI at the same time. |
Author: | AnotherSix [ Sun Jan 04, 2009 3:53 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
You can keep the wiring simple by mounting the new regulator on the fender, near the alternator. Remove the old regulator and connect the in and out wires together. Then the original blue wire at the alternator just gets a second wire tapped to it for the center pin on the new regulator. The other pin of the regulator gets another blue wire for the second field connection. This was a factory location on some later cars and makes it very simple. Just wrap the wires from the Alternator and regulator with tape and give them a decent U-shaped loop for engine movement. Even if everything is working fine, a ground harness like Dan recommended is a very good idea. I have seen several things suddenly work better on cars that I have added a ground harness too. I have used them mostly on EFI cars and some tuning quirks went away. I would add your electronic ignition and headlights to the ground plan. |
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