Ok. I have this /6 engine and I think that the owner before me replaced the distributor with the incorrect one...
5255 1 2 19 is the code stamped on the engine block. I believe it is a 225 that was manufactured on January 2, 1975. So I go to my local Autozone to get new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, point set, and condenser. However they tell me they didn't have point sets in '75. So I had them change the year to a '73 and all the parts came up but it still doesn't look right, the cap doesn't go down tight and when I turn the engine over, the cap does a dance as the rotor pushes it around. How do I fix this? Thanx.

Well, 75 cars were all electronic ignition, but the important question is what year is your car/distributor and did you get the right points for that year? Also, new rotors are known to be molded incorrectly where the locating tab in the hollow shaft is too wide which doesn't allow the rotor to seat properly on the shaft in the distributor. This could be your problem.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

How about a picture of the distributor?

Autozone could have easily sold you the wrong parts. Autozone is cheap in the worst meaning of the word.

_________________
Joshua

Never buy parts at Autozone, they'll only sell you garbage.

The same parts would've come up in their computer for '75 and '73, except for different spark plugs because of a different cylinder head. The first year for electronic ignition (no points) was '73.

Your 5 225 1 2 19 is a 225-1 (probable truck engine) built on February 19, 1975.

There are a lot of different distributors for slant-6 engines. Not all of them use the same caps and rotors. How about a clear, sharp picture of the distributor your engine has, together with any numbers stamped or tagged on it?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

All my pictures are at...
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... Id=2254699





The first picture is the only number I could find on the distributor. 3755036 or 8755036. Not sure. Picture two is from the side, and third is down from the top without cap or button.

COOL! A stationary power generator! If you ever want to ditch the propane setup I might be interested in buying it from you.


I will tell you that the distributor looks to be wired wrong. The wire from the distributor is supposed to go directly to the (-) terminal on the coil. I believe that the previous owner installed a points distributor in place of an electronic ignition distributor and hacked up the wiring doing so.

see here for proper electronic ignition wiring diagrams. Compare the ignition wiring independent of the distributor to the diagrams and see if what you have is a points dist in an electronic ignition system.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That is a standard Chrysler passenger car and light truck point distributor. Asking for parts for a 1972 or earlier car should have gotten you the right parts application, but going to Autozone appears to have delivered junk parts.

As Reed noted the wire from the distributor needs to go directly to the coil negative terminal. The ballast resistor should be in line with the +12V feed to the coil.

With that small plug head and the BH block it appears your engine is a 1975 or early 1976 model. Earlier engines used the longer reach gasket seat spark plugs and later engines did not have the BH block.

_________________
Joshua

Yep, it's an ordinary pre-1970 points-type distributor. Hook it up correctly, and ditch that DuraLast trash Autozone sold you. Get NAPA Echlin points CS-851 (not CS-851P), a NAPA Echlin rotor MO-3000, a Standard-BlueStreak cap CH-410X, and a Standard-BlueStreak condensor AL-111X. For best results, don't substitute, and definitely don't get an Echlin distributor cap. Use NGK spark plugs. And the next time you buy an oil filter, make it a NAPA #1806.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Gotta love the industrial - marine Chrysler Exhaust manifolds!! Big, Heavvy and HAS some big Chrysler Letters cast right into it.. I need one of them babies for my next drag car


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yeah, one of those would make a killer turbo manifold for a rear engined dragster!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.