If I had my 62 master cylinder sent out for a rebuilt what can I expect to pay on an average? I talked to my friendly NAPA man today and can buy a new one for around $78.00 or one of their rebuilt ones for about $38.00.
I've heard horror stories about Autozone and some of the others. I've never used them, I always stuck to a NAPA or one of the old reliable name stores. I'd like to go new but 2 times the price makes me wonder if I can live with rebuilt.
Any ideas as to the right way to go???
Thanks.
Joe

The last time I wondered that and decided to go with a reman was on a 318 water pump; I decided to try and "cheap out", went with the reman; within 200 miles I was doing the job again-this time with a new pump.

There are numerous options for brass or stainless steel sleeving for a master cylinder such as yours. Pick one and go with it — do not buy a "remanufactured" or "rebuilt" unit over the counter of any parts store, or you'll be doing the job again soon, assuming you survive the crash. NAPA's stuff used to be somewhat less awful than the consumer-type parts stores, but no more.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK, It sounds like it would be worth my while to invest in a new unit.
Thanks guys, as always you've been a big help.
Joe

40 bucks is cheap compared to one little crumpled front end part if you could even find a good replacment. Oh, and the never ending surcharge on your annual insurance premiums...

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Even new parts are questionable, any more. There is so much crap being made offshore. I hadd all brand new brake parts on my Valiant, except for drums, and the rear wheel cylinders, started leaking, within a couple of months. Even the PST strut rod bushings on my Cuda have disintegrated after only 3 years.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Charlie, you're wicked encouraging. wjarj you've got a valid point. I don't even want to think how hard it would be to find body parts. Especially non rusted parts up here in the Great North Woods. Thanks all, I'm convinced I new a brand new cylinder and hope for the best. It's kind of sad to think that American pride and craftsmanship has gone down the pooper. Sorry , wrong forum for that.
Joe

Are you looking for a stock replacement, or are you considering upgrades?

Your '62 still has a single-circuit master cylinder, right?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Very good question. It is still single. I hadn't given any thought about an upgrade. I am open to suggestions but right now my plate is pretty full. I'm in the middle of degreasing the motor, water pump replacement, carb rebuild, trying to figure out what color to paint the block once I get it clean (I know it's supposed to be red but the intake, exhaust and valve cover are already red-that's a lot of red), reinstall the radiator fan, alternator and all brackets, replace intake and exhaust manifolds, and repaint some of the sheet metal I've taken off. Wow, put it in print and I'm tired already. All this from a guy that really hasn't turned a wrench seriously for about 30 years. I'm going to go take a nap.
Joe

Joe, Slantvaliant has a point, consider up grading to a duel unit. You would have to do a little extra plumbing, but the old girl will be a lot safer, and I don't think the cost would be much more to up grade.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I had a brake line failure on my 66 Valiant /6, with a single cylinder master. I exited the expressway at a high rate of speed, crossed Dorchester Ave against the light, at rush hour, and circled the pumps at a closed gas station about 4 times, before I remembered I had an emergency brake. Might be worthwhile to do the upgrade before, for instance, repainting the block. =$0.02

I concur, not a big deal to add a dual MC. Much safer, also.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

OK, where do I start?? What master cylinder should I look for?? Anything out there that will bolt up?? There goes the credit card, Ka-ching, Ka-ching.
Thanks.
Joe

Get a new Raybestos master cylinder #MC36338. You'll also need a distribution block (Inline Tube #BLK-250 or an original off a '67-'74 A-body with 4-wheel drum brakes) and you'll need master cylinder-to-distribution-block hardlines. Be sure to bend the latter up with at least one coil/loop in each to allow for flex without breakage.

I avoid the silicone brake fluid (DOT-5). It doesn't eliminate corrosion problems (just changes them) and introduces several new/different problems. DOT-3, DOT-4, and DOT-5.1 are all glycol-based fluids, listed here in order of increasing boil-resistance.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Who sells the Raybestos master cylinder?
Joe