Slant Six Forum
https://slantsix.org/forum/

proper engine oil?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33312		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  63pushy [ Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:46 am ]
Post subject:  proper engine oil?
I've actually been running RotellaT 15-40 in my other old cars since the zinc has been dropped in regular oils. Would this be okay in my slant6? Or do you guys like something else better? After reading up on oil pump issues, I'm wondering if it is too heavy. I'm in Idaho, where it's usually in the mid 20s or above in winter, but gets quite hot (105or so) in summer. Thanks in advance for advice, Kelly
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:33 am ]
Post subject: 
15w40 is too thick unless your engine is seriously worn. I'm in Toronto, running Mobil-1 10w30 in my old '71 Dart for easy, quick, low-wear cold starts. If I were using non-synthetic oil, I'd drop down to 5w30.
Author:  440_Magnum [ Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: proper engine oil?
Quote:
I've actually been running RotellaT 15-40 in my other old cars since the zinc has been dropped in regular oils. Would this be okay in my slant6? Or do you guys like something else better? After reading up on oil pump issues, I'm wondering if it is too heavy. I'm in Idaho, where it's usually in the mid 20s or above in winter, but gets quite hot (105or so) in summer. Thanks in advance for advice, Kelly
The whole zinc thing *may* have been blown out of proportion, but if you still want to be cautious I would run the synthetic version of Rotella-T (blue bottle) in SAE 5W40. And that's in fact what I run in all my old Mopar v8s and my Jeep 4.0. The PT Cruiser gets Mobil 1 5w30 (roller cams). Given the fragility of the oil pump drive in the slant-6 (I'm loathe to even use the word "fragility" and "slant-6 in the same sentence) I would err on the side of a thinner oil rather than thick. 15w40 is going to load up the oil pump drive very heavily in cold weather.
Author:  Reed [ Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Here in Tacoma, WA, I run either straight 30 weight or 5W-30.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have been running 0-30W Mobil 1 since engine break in. It is a very good oil and the engine is actually much quieter vs the thicker oil weights. I am running a little looser lash for more torque (.012 - .022).
Over all mileage is a little better, great starts at 15-20 degrees or 95 to 100 degrees. It reads a constant 48 pounds on a stock oil pump and after market large scale oil gauge.
Author:  63pushy [ Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks guys. I appreciate the input. If I run a non-synthetic 5-30w, should I use an additive to increase the amount of zinc present? Dan, I think you mentioned a GM product?
Thanks again.
BTW I remember somebody mentioning that the oil pump bolt torque was 200 inch pounds. Is this for the five bolts which secure the whole oil pump, or the smaller ones which secure the plate over the gear?
I pulled the pump today to check wear on the gear and in the pump and everything checked out good. The gasket released cleanly from the block. Do I need to replace the gasket or put some type of sealer on it, or just torque it back down?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:59 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Here in Tacoma, WA, I run either straight 30 weight or 5W-30.
Unless you are trying to squeeze the last few miles out of a thoroughly whipped engine, quit running straight 30 weight (or straight anyweight) and your fuel economy will go noticeably upward, while your engine wear goes significantly downward.
Author:  Reed [ Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Here in Tacoma, WA, I run either straight 30 weight or 5W-30.
Unless you are trying to squeeze the last few miles out of a thoroughly whipped engine, quit running straight 30 weight (or straight anyweight) and your fuel economy will go noticeably upward, while your engine wear goes significantly downward.
I only run straight 30 weight on a freshly rebuilt motor. After the first oil change I go to 5W-30. I actually haven't run 30 wieght for about five years, which is when the motor in my 84 Ford van was rebuilt. It has been run on Mobil-1 synthetic oil ever since the first post-rebuild oil change. I forget what weight though.
Author:  68barracuda [ Thu Jan 15, 2009 8:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Straight Rotella SAE30 - works like a charm -
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

I only run straight 30 weight on a freshly rebuilt motor.
Absolute worst time you could possibly run it. Everything's got super-tight clearances and it takes forever for the oil to get where it's needed.
Author:  Reed [ Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Absolute worst time you could possibly run it. Everything's got super-tight clearances and it takes forever for the oil to get where it's needed.
Interesting. THe guy I use for machine work has been building and racing all sorts of cars since the 60s. He specifically recommended using straight 30 weight for the break in period. :?
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Your engine will run super hot during break-in with heavy of oil unless you run very loose tolerances for racing.

I built mine with half the factory tolerance and used 10-30 Valvoline for the first 20,000 miles then switched to 0-30W Mobile 1. On start up it hits 50 lbs. pressure and then runs at 48 lbs after an hour of running.
Author:  MiDi [ Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:17 am ]
Post subject: 
hey guys i'm no expert but ok here is my 2 pentz

10 - 30 is what u wanna run, if you have a funky oil pump or an old motor run straight up 30. i perfer chevron oil cause @ costco biz a case is affordable and its quality oil. mobile and my fav castrol is good too. just try to avoid the bargin brands cause none of us have any clue what in that stuff.

napa gold makes a great filter, k&n's i have had nonthing but problems with. i just put a fresh one in today and it failed! with very messy results.
bocsh ( in a pintch ) makes a ok filter, also and wix is great. i am sure others will disagree with this entire post but i am posting whats worked for me. fram is junk but it can get you buy, stp oil filters are also garbage.
and the bragain brand oil filters are hit and miss but not on my motor!

check oil and again! check your oil often, in most cases these are older motors and they can leak from many places. a happy motor is one full of good oil with a proper filter!

i keep an oil rag in my trunk with 3 quarts of 10-30 for when ever i need it.

with my dutra oil pump i run 45 to 50psi @ idle. if it goes down i know i have a problem.
Author:  emsvitil [ Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:35 am ]
Post subject: 
I think the idea of engine breakin with 30w oil is that percentage wise, there's more oil as there isn't any viscosity chemicals in it.........
Author:  Eric W [ Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Personaly, I've never had a problem in 20+ years with 10W-40 Valvoline (Napa and CarQuest oil are also Valvoline) and either Napa (Wix), CarQuest (also Wix), or my personal favorite, Purolator filters.
Page 1 of 2 All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/