Can't find my manual! Argh... Anybody got a quick how-to on band adjustment? I just need the in. pounds measurements and how many turns back. Thanks, Kelly

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

From the '63 FSM:

Kickdown band to 72 lb·in, then back off 2 turns (w/225 engine) or 2-5/8 turns (w/170 engine), hold the adjusting screw in that position, and tighten the locknut to 25 lb·ft.

Low/reverse band to 72 lb·in, then back off 5¼ turns, hold the adjusting screw in that position, and tighten the locknut to 20 lb·ft.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. Also, got my new pan today. It is beautiful. And about one and a half inches deeper than the old one. Guess I'm going to need a couple more quarts of the ATF+4! Also, I decided to weld in a drain plug to save that expensive fluid in the future. I did find that the valve body has a bump in the front which caused me to do a bit of body work on the pan to allow all the bolt holes to line up. It also appears there is a drain back "ramp"at the rear of the pan which the new one doesn't have. I'm not sure if that is an issue yet... So, perhaps a bit more "body work" before it's done. But it feels like a cool upgrade. I had my local hydraulic shop make me a line to replace the inline filter, so maybe I will be mobile this weekend. Anyway, thanks a bunch.

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

You're welcome! Interesting...I haven't run into a need to "massage" the late pan to fit the early trans, especially given that (as you notice) the new pan is substantially deeper than the old.

You needn't put in any ramps or anything.

(see what I mean about the Mopar gasket...?)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The parts guy did say the old number (suffix AB), had been superceded by suffix AD, so maybe the pan is a bit different. I'll try to post some pics of the pan and see what you think about the return issue. The flange has a indent on the inside of the back edge. I'm assuming this is to allow the return of fluid to the pan. I haven't procured the mopar gasket yet. Hopefully tomorrow...

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

Those suffixes don't indicate a significant change to the part, only a production/sourcing detail change (like they get it from stamping plant "B" instead of stamping plant "A", or they use paint formula "B" on it instead of formula "A", etc.). Yeah, show some pics.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok I'm about to ask some stupid questions, but it's my first time so please bear with me.

So when you say Kickdown band to 72 lb in, does this mean you loosen the locknut, then torque the adjustment screw sticking out of the tranny down to 72 lb in, then back it off 2 turns? Is this basically like using the starting point on a carb adjustment by turning the screw in all the way and backing it off? Or does 72lb in not screw the adjustment all the way in? The reason I'm asking is because I don't have a really accurate torque wrench and I'm wondering if getting it in the ballpark would help or make it worse? Also how do you hold the adjusting screw in that position while tightening the locknut to 20lb ft? Won't the socket from the torque wrench cover the adjusting screw when you put it on the lock nut? Or can this just be done without torquing and just a nice firm tightening?

My tranny is working perfectly after my adjustment, and I did what the FSM (and Dan) said. I bought a lb-in. torque wrench from Harbor freight for $20. Yes, loosen the locknut, torque the adj. screw to 72 lb-in. then back it off the number of turns required. Then i held the adj screw from turning and used an end wrench to tighten the locknut to a guess of about 20 lbs. then went ahead and used a torque wrench and socket to get the torque right on.

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

Awesome, thanks pushy. I havent been able to get down there and look at it yet so it wasnt making complete sense. I think I got it now. Gonna attempt to adjust the bands and change the fluid/filter today. Thank you.

If that is the Mopar deep pan, don't forget the "dropped" filter adapter. It will need to be modified, to allow fluid to the rear pump. It needs two holes, not just one. You also need the 64-65 filter with two openings, or modify the later filter.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

one more thing, the adjustment "screw" is really a bolt (at least mine was) I think it accepts a 5/16 socket...

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

I did mine a while back, and it is the deep pan. I just used more fluid (1 1/2 quarts extra) and it works fine with the newer filter. Now I just have to be careful over speed bumps with my little 13" donuts!

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

How did you guys get the lock nut loose on the band inside of the pan? I couldn't get clearence to get a socket on it or a wrench to have enough room to turn it. So I just had to leave it alone.

I don't remember having a problem with that. I have a set of deep thin wall sockets, so maybe that is why...

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I'm sure I can do this without disconnecting the battery. What could possibly go wrong?

Hmm, I have a set as well but they werent even close to fitting on. I couldn't think of any kind of socket that would fit the clearance that was required. I probably just didn't know what I was doing