I have a 63 Valiant, 225 slant. While driving the volt meter shows discharge. After driving awhile the car will start to die, back fire and run real rough. After a few episodes of that the volt meter will go all the way over to charge and the car seems to run fine. I replaced the alternator, my battery is good but the problem still exsist. Any suggestions?

Voltage regulator.

If you are still running the original single field alternator with the mechanical voltage regulator, I would recommend upgrading to the later dual field alternator with the electronic voltage regulator.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed, I'm curious: What is the basis for that recommendation? There's nothing the matter with the single-field system; there are many very good electronic regulators available for it, and they're easier to install on a pre-1970 car than the '70-up system you have in mind.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'd suspect that you have a high resistance in your IGN circuit and/or a bad regulator loading it down. Before you start replacing things, measure the voltage at the high side of the ballast with the car running; it ought to be within 1V or so of the battery. If it's much lower, disconnect the regulator and try again. After running the car a good while to warm things up, try it all again.

If your voltage is low, you'll have to work backward to find where the poor connection is; you might well find many marginal areas that individually aren't so bad, but collectively represent a large resistance.

Hmmm. The last time I did this swap, the common recommendation was to go to a dual field setup because it had a more steady output, and I don't think the electronic regulators were available for single field back then. THis was about 10-13 years ago though. Been awhile since I played with a vehicle that needed this.

To be honest, I usually did this upgrade as part of an electronic ignition upgrade. If you upgrade both systems at the same time, you can unravel the wiring harness of the donor vehicle and the vehicle being upgraded and simply remove the Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 wires from the firewall bulkhead and replace them with the upgrade parts. No splicing, nice and clean install that is as good as if it were factory.

If there are electric voltage regulators for the single field system, then just switch to one of those.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You can always make a voltage regulator, and put it in the old points case........

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... +regulator

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

H'mm. The electronic regulators for the pre-'70 setup have been available for at least 20 years.

:shrug:

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Okay, then I just did it without knowing any better. You probably don't need to switch to a dual field alternator, but an electric voltage regulator is a good idea. I guess I was just doing what others told me to do.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

When you get old, a month, a year, a decade, a century all seem about the same...............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Jeez, I'm only 30 but I can relate to that statement....

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You need to visually check all of your electrical contacts--- the fuse block, the bulk head connector (where wires pass through the firewall) & then your engine side connections. Most likely you have rust/corrosion at your connections.
Clean them off, there is not that many--- then start your testing as KBB stated.
You brought it back to life-- it just needs some fine tuning for another 50 years, Lawrence