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| help with camshaft https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33640 |
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| Author: | 67a 100 pickup [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | help with camshaft |
Need help with a camshaft that has worked for you, here's what I have. "stock" rebuilt head with hardened seats and stock valves offy 2-1bbl intake 2" single exhaust 355 rear stock 727 automatic 3800 max gvw pulling bottom end out this weekend to send to shop bore the block??? resurface block?? trun the crank??? what lift and duration cam??? someone said to use car pistons instead of truck pistons and some sort of RV cam????? any help is greatly appreciated. 
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| Author: | Doc [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There a lot of good cam info in this thread: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21400 DD |
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| Author: | runvs_826 [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Doc beat me to the punch! Yes, the Erson group buy cams seem to be the best deal, they seem to have more though put in them. I would consider getting a little more than an RV cam. Those work well, but they seem to be just the stock cam with a %10 increase of numbers, not so much a vast improvement. The other thing to look at would be shaving the head for increased compression and upgrading the carb. I've never heard of anything concerning piston choices. The nice thing about slants is most of the stuff carries over between models, not a huge problem of crossing parts, there is some you have to worry about. |
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| Author: | 67a 100 pickup [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 5:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | thanks, now for the carbs?? |
ok, got the cam figured out 440 lift, 220 @ 50... now I need help on the carbs for the dual setup 1 bbl offy intake, which model number and brand???? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can always regrind your old cam to higher lift and duration. I did for $35.00, then when you mill the head your .090 or .100 your stock push rods will still fit. Nice cost savings and no more pinging......Now I got an engine with some real spunk!  Might as well balance it while your at it. |
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| Author: | 67a 100 pickup [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks |
Now there's a guy with some numbers that are in a car and working instead of confusing the hell out of me with paper ok, with that much cam how is the idle and are you running a single 1920 1bbl that just has a bigger jet???
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
67a 100 pickup, Yes, the cam idles very nice in fact so nice, I cranked up my initial timing from 0 degrees (for the 74) to 16 degrees initial. It is not that much cam believe me, it is considered to be an RV type cam for more torque. I am running a tall rear end so the extra torque is nice which equates to better mileage. My stock carb was a 1945 Holley which would only get 22 mpg at best, most of the time only 18 mpg. Yes, I switched to a 1920 Holley Economaster that came out between 1968 and 1972. Actually the 1945 Holley had a 61-2 jet in it. I cam currently running a #56 jet in the 1920 with reasonable power and mileage. In the winter mileage does go down some, 24.4 to 24.8 mpg from 25 plus. The Economaster seems to mix better and provides better power and mileage compared to the 1945. I am planning to put on a four barrel aluminum manifold and a two barrel Super Six set up for a little more power when the weather gets better. Hope that helps... I went with stock car .030 over pistons and coated them with Teflon for fun and reduced the tolerances a little since I run 0-30W Mobil 1 synthetic.....it helps a little on the mileage since I travel 120 miles a day. By the way as long as it's apart be sure you have at least 2.25" exhaust all the way back and a free flowing muffler. You will feel more power from the engine and see higher vacuum readings. |
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| Author: | 67a 100 pickup [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That just saved me some bucks, I have a 1920 now for my 67' and have been kicking around the idea of the offy intake, but i think I'm going to put the 1920 back on and keep looking for a super 6 set up that will be a lot cheaper than the dual carb setup. Looks cool though Maybe later when I get further along.
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sent you my build sheet and some data and a few picks after putting two years of steady driving on the engine, 44,000 miles since rebuild. |
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| Author: | mod5j [ Fri Feb 06, 2009 8:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | blower cam profile |
$128.00 for the Erson can't be beat, especially for a custom grind. How does the group buy work, do I just mention that I'm a member of the forum? Anyone have any recommendations for a blower cam grind? This is a drag race only application in a 1800 lb. car. I plan on launching the car at about 4200 RPM. I would think that with a forced induction that I would widen the lobe center to reduce the overlap, no need for a lot of scavenging with the forced induction? Also I see that all Mopar lifters are .904 diameter, any other differences. Will V8 solid or roller lifters word in a Slant Six? I had the Carpel Tunnel surgery yesterday so I won't be in the shop for a few days. Typing with one finger instead of two. Jim |
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| Author: | Doc [ Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have used .904 V-8 roller lifter in a number of Slants in the past. The 2 challenges: - Getting a steel or hardened camshaft that will hold-up to rollers - Making some type of lifter anti rotation feature or "tie-bar" that fits into the cramped lifter area. As for the cam geometry needed for a blower... call a few cam grinders with your engine specs and see what their computer models tell you. DD |
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