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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:46 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 8:56 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
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I have spent way too much time looking through the forums trying to figure out what would work best for me.
I want to be able to keep up with in town traffic. As it is i could not break traction on ice.

I have a 225 with the stock 1bl set up. I have installed an electronic ignition, and it starts up a lot easier.

I have looked at the differen fuel intake systems available, and don't know what would be the best. I don not want a racing motor, I just don't want to be so sluggish.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:04 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:35 am
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I would say new intake 2bbl like off a 318 mopar or something simmaler

and a freer flowing exhaust for a start.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:16 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:54 pm
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What gears do you have in your diff?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:09 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Nice car!

Things to improve are:

Better exhaust will give you some power and some mileage...

If you have an automatic tranny, the 2.76 rear gears have to go, and 3.23's are a miniml must for the size and weight of your car... if you have a manual...getting a truck A-833 OD floor shift and changing to a set of 3.55+ would make you grin more and keep some mileage...

Super six intake for daily driving would be a next step too that would keep the mileage and get you some more power too...


Combine all three then it will improve, unfortunately...as with anything if the 'bug' bites you, then you might get the itch to go to the next level and start in on the 4 barrel/etc... mods....

In your case, start basic and work up from there...
Another helpful hint is to recurve you EI timing to something more like the 1976-1978 curves (check on past articles...)

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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if you drop a set of 3.23's or 3.55 gears that will be the most noticeable improvement for your buck it will wake the car right up and keep mileage 3.55's for a little more wake up :) i got 4.10's goin into my duster but i'm on a quest for the 14's in the quarter or faster.

Kevin

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:09 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I vote for the 3.23 gear 1st.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:38 am 
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Supercharged
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No one has mentioned making sure the car actually runs right so do a comprehensive tune-up. Check the compression, adjust the valves, make sure the coil and plug wires are in top shape and put in new extended tip plugs. If the engine isn't in good mechanical condition you'll need to take care of repairs first.

Your car probably came with 2.91 or 2.94 gears standard. 3.23s would be an improvement and 3.55 would make acceleration even better, but might be a bit buzzy on the highway if your tires are on the short side. After that I'd have a 2 1/4" exhaust system built and then try a 2bbl.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 8:02 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 8:56 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
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Thanks Guys, I am considering Cliffords 4bl package or $600.00. It is comes with every thing including headers. I think I will change the gears this weekend.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Welcome to the board.

You are getting way ahead of yourself looking to drop chunks of cash on inappropriately-large carburetors and headers. Yes, the '70s slant-6s were notoriously sluggish, but there's a great deal you can (and should) do to get the engine running right before you drop a 4bbl and headers on it. That's not to mention the notoriously sleazy business practices of Clifford (take your money immediately, send the parts when/if they ever get around to it, hang up on you if/when you complain about the cruddy quality control on their merchandise...).

You have an electronic ignition - good. Which one? If it's the Mopar Performance distributor, it's got "drag race only" advance curves that work very poorly on the street. And if it's not the MP unit, unless it's one of a few factory-equipment distributors that have decent curves, it's got "smog" advance curves that work very poorly, too. Recurving the distributor will usually free up a bunch of performance, mileage, and driveability.

Unrestricting the exhaust is a good idea. Dutra Duals are a better, more cost-effective, easier, and more street-compatible way to do it than headers. But you don't even have to buy Dutra Duals. A 2¼" headpipe off the existing manifold into a thoughtfully picked muffler gives a good improvement in exhaust flow.

The cam timing on the '70s engines started out retarded, and because of the nylon-over-aluminum camshaft sprocket, they tend to grow more and more retarded with age and use. Putting in a new timing chain and sprockets, taking the time to degree-in the camshaft carefully, will often add a great deal of snap to a sluggish slant-6 car.

Many of the '70s 1bbl carburetors are quite notorious for giving sluggish, strangled engine performance. A factory '76-'80 "Super Six" 2bbl setup makes a huge improvement in driveability and performance.

A full tune-up and valve adjustment should be very high on the list of things to do.

After all of that, if you still think you need more, then will be the time to start looking at dropping big chunks of cubic dollars on radical parts.

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Last edited by SlantSixDan on Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 8:57 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 10:41 am
Posts: 131
Location: Saratoga Ca
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Clifford intakes and headers can be hard to get and sometimes have problems with the intake/exhaust gasket sealing because the flanges are different thickness. To keep good street manners you might want to think about an Offenhauser 4 bbl manifold and Dutra duals.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 5:18 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Quote:
A 2&#188" headpipe off the existing manifold
A what? :lol:

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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
2&#188"
Dan's just talkin' Q-Bert!!!!!! :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:43 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:57 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:07 am
Posts: 42
Car Model:
When i posted a day or three ago I too was looking for a few cheap tricks to get a abit of zip with a 70's CA slant... Looking for basic steps to get the ol' smogger runnin' ...20.56 at 66.5 with a tail wind... 75 vl29 225 904... This will be a smog exempt car, eventually plan on going EFI turbo .. really it was this or that damn 12 second NOVA so need a few tips on making the car run half way decent... I know from a stack of tiome slips on a variety of cars over the years that just a few tricks can garner a big improvement in performance..Not expecting miracles .. I know this jewell ain't gonna run 10s with a cold air and a wing... (might need a TORNADO and magnets on the fuel line for that... :lol: ) you said better curve what specs are you suggesting a quick all in by 2500? a gentle slope ? specifics please ( at least a starting point .. initial? recurved quicker with less total less dist? Any and all suggestions are appreceated..


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:06 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Apr 09, 2006 6:08 pm
Posts: 962
Location: Comfrey MN
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Quote:
..Not expecting miracles .. I know this jewell ain't gonna run 10s with a cold air and a wing... (might need a TORNADO and magnets on the fuel line for that... :lol: )
I like your sence of humor :lol:

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