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 Post subject: 1964 Valiant
PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:28 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:12 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
Hello everyone. Here is the story. I have a 1964 Valiant which has been sitting in my garage since my son left it there about 3 years ago. It has a very very tired 170 which I would like to rebuild. My thought is to only make minor changes, performance wise, and for the most part leave it stock. I have a super six set up for it but may just go with the one barrel that is on it. I have already upgraded it to electronic ignition. The car has a lot of issues including rust in the quarters and around the windows. Also needs suspension work. I can drive it as is but it is only hitting on about 3 cylinders. Looking for any advice on where to start, if its really worth the money time and effort, and if not what is the market for this car...thanks for any and all advice...Mark..I am in South Florida btw...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:24 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:47 pm
Posts: 374
Location: SF CAL
Car Model:
find a running 225 and swap it over. rebuild the suspension and drive the car everywhere

_________________
64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:44 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
As a start, I would pull-off the valve cover and check the valve lash...
Valve recession can take-up all the lash and cause missing.
Re-adjust the valves and it may run a whole lot better.

After that, run a compression check, burnt valves is the next common cause for missing, along with broken rings... if that is the problem, time to start looking for a replacement engine.
DD


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:55 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
Love to have that car but it would cause domestic earthquakes, as in NOT another project, no no! They are addictive.

Good news is that taking advice to get another engine and put it in is not 1,000's of dollars as you may have heard from big block mopar guys or engine swap places. The engine is cheap or free, often. Putting it in is easy. If you have a chance to get engine and tranny, do it. Piles of parts ensures you have them when you have no cash.

rock
'64d100


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:41 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
64's are poison! Get rid of it! Send it to me and I won't charge much to take it off you hands ...

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously, they're good cars. I'd take a look at the things Doc mentioned, along with a real tuneup.

Get it running right, then see what else it needs, and prioritize.

I've had mine for 22 years and put a of miles on it. Most of the work has been done a piece at a time without any big cash outlays. For the biggest projects, I saved up as I studied and shopped.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 5:51 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 458
Location: Gainesville, FL
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant 225, 1977 Dodge D100 225
Um...yes...you don't want that '64. They're horrible, awful cars and you should give it to me before I change my mind.


It actually hurt me to say that.

I'm a bit biased, but seriously, I think the '64 is one of the best looking A-bodies ever. I would recommend switching to a 225 if you're going to keep things mild. A lot can be done with 170s, as many people here I'm sure will tell you, but having had both, I'm much, much happier with a stock 225 over a stock 170. Just my two cents.

_________________
Chuck and the Flying Valiant
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 Post subject: Valiant
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:19 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:12 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
thanks for the advice guys. I have checked the lash and the compression is not good. The engine has about 275,000 miles and according to the numbers is the original engine. That was the only reason in wanting to rebuild the existing one. If I switch to a 225 are there any little hiccups in swapping it out? Should I get a later model that has the hydraulic valves? great site we have here. thanks for all your help..Mark


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 Post subject: Valiant
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:33 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:34 pm
Posts: 187
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida
Car Model:
As far as the rust goes, I have not had any luck finding aftermarket body parts. Be ready to become a metal or fiberglass fabricator. Good luck..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:49 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Unless you really can't stand adjusting valves, converting to hydraulic lifters is more effort that it's worth.

OTOH, I went to HEI in part because I hated adjusting points ... :oops:

When looking for parts, make sure you know the interchange. HINT: Think early Barracuda.

Fiberglass fenders, hoods, and lower grill pans are available but are not cheap. Look HERE

Steel quarter patch panels are available for 63-65 Valiants and Barracudas at The Paddock
Again, not cheap.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject: Valiant
PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:59 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:34 pm
Posts: 187
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida
Car Model:
Thanks again. All good information. If I was a retired guy id most likely jump into this with both feet. But being a working guy finding the time to do all that needs done, and im an obsessive perfectionist, might be divorce material! So ill think about it awhile. Love the sight by the way..Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:03 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
If you weren't so far away from me, I would tell you to come over and grab the yellow block '63 A100 engine I have. It is a 225 and was a runner before it was pulled in favor or a V8.

One coast to the other.... Roadtrip!

Divorce material or not, that will be a sweet car when you get a chance to sink some time and a few bucks into it. I can't agree that the '64 is the best looking, I favor the '66, but I'd would rather have a '64 than no a-body at all!

:mrgreen:

I had a hydro engine in my '74 swinger awhile back and I suppose it was nice for not needing to adjust the valves, but it limits your ability to do much in the area of compression ratio increases. You can't shave the head/block much because you can easily bottom out the lifters.

Also, I have been told that using a bigger cam with the hydro lifters won't work, but others say it will. :roll:

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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 Post subject: Valiant
PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:23 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:12 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
Ok guys you have all about convinced me to get the thing going. My divorce is on your conscience. I will be nagging you all to death with the details of doing this project as I have some experience but limited. So look for my questions in all the topic areas. Thanks again..Mark


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 Post subject: compression
PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:27 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 9:11 am
Posts: 84
Location: Venice, CA
Car Model:
check the cylinders and if 1/2 are bad rebuild or swap for the 225. im rebuilding my 63. motor almost put back together.......


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