I know that in the past that Painless's wiring quality has been questioned before but has anyone used this Mopar kit?
http://www.painlessperformance.com/asse ... page25.pdf

I'm getting sick of piecing my hacked up harness back together and I am planning on a dash swap so more hacking will have to be done

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Seeing what I've seen, and knowing what I know, I would not buy from Painless.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm glad you chimed in Dan. That is why I posted the question.

Is their wire really worse than 40 year old wiring?

What have you seen and what do you know? Well, not everything you know but a few links of tests or something would be nice.

(I'm actually surprised you didn't post some previous discussion links... it seems to be your niche. )

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Not so much the quality of the wire itself per se, but from what I've heard it's a smaller gauge in places where larger gauge is needed, and the connectors and components are cheap Chinese crap, and the connections show poor worksmanship. It's been enough to make me steer clear of them as well.

Personally I have no problem piecing together a new wiring harness bit by bit, but it can be a pain in the arse to try to find the right color coded stuff so I can still follow the wiring diagram with the stuff I change (any striped wire is almost impossible to find locally). All my connectors are crimped, then soldered, then shrinkwrapped. 100% weather and vibration proof, and they're guaranteed to last. I also use GM Weatherpak connectors wherever I can in place of the funky old brittle connectors.

I'm still in the process of fixing all the stuff that I band-aided when I first bought the car

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

All that and it's overpriced, too.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That too.

While we're on the subject or wiring, do you know of a good source for specialty color wiring? Like the striped stuff that none of the grocery-store type parts stores carry? I want to retain the Chrysler wire color coding for the stuff I replace as I piecemeal my harness.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Where can one get a mopar wireing harness new? Mine is so spliced, mix/matched, cobbled up, mangled, twisted. etc. I can't even follow a diagram. You couldn't even begin to imagine what it looks like untill you have seen it yourself! My grandpas street rod has a painless harness in it, not problems as of yet, and it it going on 13 years old, although its not a dd. I was going to put one in my car, but that has since changed...

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Year One has harnesses available. I think the dash section alone is over $400.00. That section is my biggest issue.

I know dozens of street rod guys with painless kits too. But I really want to see/hear Dans take on this.

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

I was a bit amused when they claimed it came with a "unique" fuse box, as that looks like an off the shelf late model OEM relay module. There may not be anything unique about it besides the sticker.
Try a Google search for TXL wiring and you shouldn't have too much trouble finding the striped wires. Finding it in short lengths or with custom labeling may be tricky though...

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I agree with Jopapa, I don't mind piecing together a wiring harness. Actually that's what I did with most of the wiring under the hood. I was going to buy a wiring kit but most of them were way over priced. I tried to keep the same color wires to the original but some were close enough, then you just note it in your diagram.

The only thing I did different was I didn't replace the connectors in the bulkhead (it was melted). I just removed the damaged connectors and ran the wiring straight through the bulkhead. One way I look at it is there's one less connector to corrode. -Dan