I *think* I have isolated my overcharging/voltage regulator frying problem to one wire. The blue wire that comes off the VR that connects to the top terminal on the alt runs into a bunch of cobbled wires. I cut it off and ran it straight to the terminal from the VR, this caused the ammeter to show a slight discharge. When I hook it up to the wire that runs through the cobbled up cables, it shows over a 30 amp over charge. Im still not sure if its the alt or not, Im going to try to still replace it, and see what that does. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I think you're on the right track. Go ahead and run your new wire from regulator to the alternator's field terminal. Inspect the other field wire attached to the alternator, too.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Unsure if this is related to my alt I sent you...It is a 75 amp alt

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HEY..Don't laugh...It'S paid for!!!

The other wire looks fine, is the undercharging ok to drive with?
Its not, I have not swapped it in yet, I will once I get my new trans going right.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

"Undercharging" will flatten your battery.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I can see that now, I drove it to work tonight, and no electronics, blinkers, etc. except the lights. It even had an extreme hesitation, like it was going to die, everytime I stepped on the gas. The radio is supposed to light up even if it is off, the batt didn't even have enough juice to light it. I am replacing the alt friday. Its either over/under charge with that stupid !@%@ alt!

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Changed the alt, and still the same problem. Here is how I hooked the VR up:


The blue wire goes directly to the "top" field blade on the alt, and the green one goes directly to the "side" or "bottom" field blade on the alt. I followed this from the FSM. But, the FSM shows the blue wire running to the blade on the alt, but with a splice going to the ignition circut through the ballast resistor, which I bypassed for a pertronix coil. Could that be the problem of the overcharging?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Seems to me like your missing something. Read this as there is lots of good intel. Don't let the fact that's it's for imperials fool you it's still Mopar, http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Elec ... arging.htm and follow the diagrams. You didn't say what your working on so I can't say what diagram to look at, find what fits for you. Good Luck

No good - this provides zero power to the alternator field, so you won't get charging.
Not thru the ballast resistor, but to it (that is, to its "upstream" side, before the actual resistance element). This is where the alternator field circuit picks up its +12v when the ignition is switched on.
Why?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So do I just find a 12v source when the ignition switch is on, and splice into that? Because when I hook up to the old wire that exists, I have a problem with overcharging/unsteady current.

I bypassed the ballast resistor, because the instructions for the coil said to do so. Read this and this.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I managed to make a video of the ammeter and what it does. It was taken on my cell phone, so sorry about the bad quality. The knocking noise is my windows rattling. Here is the video. If anyone has any idea what is going on, or how I can possibly fix it, please let me know. I am afraid my battery will blow up or somthing.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

Oh, an aftermarket ammeter! Okeh, I've got a question: do the car's lights (whichever ones are turned on) flicker and flash in sync with the ammeter flickering?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes they do pretty much flash in sync with the ammeter.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

I was hoping you'd get off easily with just a faulty ammeter. Okeh, next test: get yourself a length of 10-gauge wire. Put a 1/4" ring terminal on one end, and a 5/16" ring terminal on the other end. Disconnect your battery negative terminal from the battery. Connect your new #10 wire between the battery positive cable terminal and the alternator's B+/BAT (output) terminal. Reconnect your negative cable, start the car and turn on the lights. Your ammeter(s) won't work, but watch the lights for flicker. If the flicker goes away with this new wire, your A-1/A-1A main circuit from the alternator output terminal to the bulkhead disconnect and thru the firewall, thru the ammeter(s), and out to the battery is faulty.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well you were right! The lights didn't flicker that time! Now what could I do? Run a new wire from the alt with a fusible link, through the ammeter, then out to the batt+ cable?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels