Hey All, I am a member of another group and have some issues with my /, and some one suggested I come here. After lurking around and seeing all the knowledge here i decided to join. I have a 71 Dart. At first my plan was to swap out the 225 for a 360. now that I have had the car a few months I have decided to keep the / in it. But I have some BIG issues.
-First-- it needed a new valve cover gasket. I went and got one, came home and it was not the right one. So i took the cover with me to the parts store. We looked up different years and found the correct gasket. It is off a 83 Dodge Ram. So how can I tell exactly what year my motor came out of?

Next--Here in KY we had an ice storm end of Jan. Before the storm I was out driving the car, ran good, no real issues. Parked it, the storm came and now the car is running like crap. It smokes real bad. It has anti-freeze. Come to find out it is running real rich. I rebuild the holley 1920 carb and added fuel deicer/cleaner. Still running rich. I pulled the dip stick and I could smell gas in the oil. I changed oit and it was more gas than oil. What could be the REAL Issues with the / ?
I appreacite any help I can get and thanks for welcomming me to your group.

Jeff

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JEFF
71 DART SWINGER
225

It could be that your old fuel pumps diaphram is leaking, and you need a new one.









Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Could be coming from the choke hanging part closed,that would make it run rich,like crap and maybe wash raw gas right on down to the crankcase. I believe the head/valve cover changed in 81 with the hyd lifter motor,so 81-87 will be your gasket. Either the motor or head has been changed out to the hyd style. Use the search function and there will be lots of info on where the motor numbers are stamped and how to figure out what you have. Welcome aboard and now this is your group as well.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

I JUST had this happen in 2 slants within 4 months of each other. Change your fuel pump out. This will more than likely help with the bad running part also, It did me.
Frank
PS welcome to the Board.

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

This happened to mine also. If you have a lot of fuel in your oil, most likely the fuel pump is leaking into the cavity where it bolts to the block. You’ll have to change your oil again after replacing the pump.

Danny

If it has that much in the oil, then it's time to rebuild that carb...that happened on my '67...float sunk, needle didn't seat...and the excess gas in the oil didn't help lubricating the bearings...

Time to rebuild the carb, get a new float, change the oil and see where you land...

Oh and see Dan about 3 book you want to have on hand...

-D.Idiot

Thanks for the help guys. I did not even think of the pump. I was thinking of the float, went to the parts store and they could not find it in their computer. I guess I need another parts store. He could find a re-man card for $168 but not a float. Ain't that funny?

As far as rebuild, well that is later in the summer when I figure out how I want it build. Meaning what parts to get what I want for power.

Again thanks for all the help.

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JEFF
71 DART SWINGER
225

Welcome on the board. You'll want to pick up these three books as quickly as you can. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Your engine may be a complete '81 or later unit swapped in, or it might be a pre-'81 engine with an '81 up head — what are the casting numbers on the manifold side of the block? That much fuel in the oil almost certainly means you need a new fuel pump right away; replace it and change the oil again, then see how it runs. "Remanufactured" parts (including carburetors) are almost always junk; avoid them. There's a great deal of information about repairing Holley 1920 carburetors like yours on the board here; Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download, together with links to Holley 1920-specific discussion threads. Try hard for a Walker brand kit; they're the best quality. Kit number is 15480A. You'll also want a new float, Walker number 100-14. Investigate the carburetor's condition carefully; if the metering block has let its check balls go, or there's visible internal corrosion, or the carburetor has the sandblasted surface finish indicative of a "remanufactured" unit, you may not want to invest the time and effort into a rebuild, and find a new carburetor instead — if you eventually want one, send me a PM.

Eventually you may want to do the Fuel line mod and put in electronic ignition perhaps with the HEI upgrade…there's no end of upgrade and improvement to be made! But first let's get it running right and not pissing gas into the oil.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. I have only started the car once since last oil change. Getting a new pump, oil and filter tomorrow. And I am trying to locate a float for the carb. Right now I don't want to buy new, the plan is to upgrade later this summer when I rebuild the motor.
I am trying to get a motor from a 71. and since I have what seems to be a 81 or newer, which will be better to build? The older or newer 225?

Now to check out some of the links you added. Again, thanks for the help and the welcomes.

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JEFF
71 DART SWINGER
225