Does anyone sell a replacement brake line for a 1960 Valiant? Mine sprung a leak and is all rusty so I removed it.
It looks like it is 3/16ths metal tubing about 132" long. The connectors are threaded 3/8". Is this correct?
Also, is there hydraulic line made of plastic or rubber replacement line instead of metal? I figure that customizers use some other material these days.
I've never had to replace a brake line before so I could use some help.

Thanks,
Mike

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60 Red V200 Valiant & 62 Green V200 Valiant

Plastic or rubber: No. It has to be metal. Rustproof metal: Yes, CuNiFer (easy to work with) or stainless (very hard to work with). Nobody supplies ready-made new lines for a '60 Valiant, so you'll have to make your own.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Darn, I was hoping to avoid the bending and all that. But you gotta do what you gotta do!
Ok, so was I right about the size of the line?

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60 Red V200 Valiant & 62 Green V200 Valiant

i just had to replace all the brake lines on my 64 GT, i went thru the same issue of trying to find new lines. lets just say that after many phone calls and web searchs i couldn't find them. so i had a good performance shop in portland oregon make all stainless steel lines for me. it was reasonably priced and looks like a work of art.

i tryed to make the lines my self but failed miserably (i do have the tools and everything but working in the rain in a muddy driveway sucks!), i even had a buddy and board member try to help also. but in the end it was easyer and better for me to just take it to a shop and have them do it right.

now every line on my car is new and stainless steel, so i don't have to worry about them for a long time to come!

since your in seatlle your welcome to bring your car by and the shop i work for and we can make you new ss lines & install them.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I went out and purchased new brake line and fittings from Napa and borrowed the tools (flaring tool and bender) from a friend. Since there's no real hurry, I am going to do it myself. I bought a 25' coil of brake line so there's extra if I screw up. According to my measurements, I should have enough for 2 lengths. The damaged line is intact so as long as I follow the yellow brick road I should be reporting back with some good news soon. Rest assured I have a long enough concrete driveway and more time then money. Wish me luck!

Thanks for the link to the copper.org. I read the article and none of the local suppliers carry copper and nickel tubing. Since the current brake line lasted 49 years, it seems likely that steel is adequate. We don't have salted roads here.

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60 Red V200 Valiant & 62 Green V200 Valiant

Ok, so I borrowed a bender, flaring tool and tube cutter and carefully remade the new brake line in the image of the old. Then flared the ends.
I then installed it onto the car, amazingly enough it fit. I bled the drivers rear side and then the drivers front side. The pedal got stiffer and stiffer and finally felt normal. I have yet to actually street test it but it seemed like going a foot or two back and forth, the brakes were fine.
About a week later I started the car and hit the pedal and it went down pretty far but then pumped up tight. I still didn't street test it but am assuming that the other side should be bled also.

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60 Red V200 Valiant & 62 Green V200 Valiant

Any time you open the brake hydraulic system (other than removing the master cylinder cap to check fluid level) the entire brake system must be bled, starting from the right rear wheel, then left rear, then right front, then left front.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

good advice there dan, i didn't see any of the earlyer posts even mention that.

bleeding your brakes is very important, the reason you bleed the brakes in the order SSD mentioned is because u want to start at the wheel, the furthest away from the master cylinder. either using an air bleeder or by getting a buddy to operate the brake pedal for you.
then moving to the other rear, then the passanger side front wheel and then the driver's side wheel the one right next to the master cylinder is always last. if your pedal seems soft or is low to the floor, check your lines for leaks and u may have to bleed the brakes again.

if you have never bled brakes before its easy, on the back of each (drum brake) wheel cylinder there is a bleeder screw. loosen to bleed. i perfer to get a small oil pan or other container to catch the drops of brake fluid.

after proper bleeding all the air should be removed from your hydralic system and the brake pedal should feel nice n firm and return to normal postion after you take your foot off.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I have bled brakes many times in the past and I know the process. The weather has been so crappy that I don't want to do anything outdoors!
But yes, I will bleed the brakes again and recheck for leaks. There have been so many times that I've tried to fix something and broke something else, that I am always thrilled when it goes well! This is a win so far, just need to tighten it up and finish the job.

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60 Red V200 Valiant & 62 Green V200 Valiant

inline tube makes brake lines for the 63-66 A bodies. I've got lines for a 67 on my 64. disc brakes and 8 3/4" rear weren't options for a 64. they fit no problem. I also got em in stainless so they're shinny and purty looking still. If you dont want to fab one up you can try using the one for a later a body. it should be really close. but a gamble nonetheless

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7