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Super six newer parts
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34793		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Joe Colby [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Super six newer parts
I've just gotten a very complete bunch of parts for super sixing my 62. I'm pretty sure the parts are off a newer vehicle and am wondering what I can eliminate to make the install easier. I've read the super six write up and that helped a lot but would like more visual aids if I can get them. Does anyone have a bunch of pictures they want to share of all the linkage, vacume lines, and everything else?
On the intake manifold there is a part nymber 4104577 and below that is a ladder like thing in the casting followed by a 78. I'm going to assume that would be a year?? On the last runner there are two connectons, one electrical and one vacume. Do I need the electrical hookup and can I cut down on the vacume lines, It broke off but it looks like it had two or three vacume lines that came off the intake.
Thanks
Joe
Author:  NewSlanter [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
On your '62, you should be safe just plugging the vacuum bung on the #6 intake runner (I used a brass plug on mine), unless you have a power brake booster. In this thread , there are some pics of my BBD carb which SlantSixDan has labeled up for us detailing the various vacuum ports.

Hope this helps,

Nat
Author:  Joe Colby [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 3:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dan, How much different is all this to using a 62 motor??
Thanks.
Joe
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 4:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Biggest issue with Super Sixing a '62 is going from rod-operated to cable-operated throttle. Parallel-2bbl intake manifold mod article (PDF) contains info on one solution. Another solution is to tear out original gas pedal and install later "hanging" cable-type pedal. Is this 2bbl intake you have the iron or aluminum one? You should keep thermostatic air cleaner functional, delete EGR (can use blockoff plate for clean installation), swap your existing vacuum tap off rearmost runner of 1bbl intake onto 2bbl intake to provide vacuum for heat/defog controls, plug other port on 2bbl intake with 3/8" pipe plug. Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download.
Author:  Joe Colby [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 5:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry Dan, It's aluminum. It came with the package and I'm going to hope it'll work.
You're going to have to walk me through this. I've saved the PDF's and will go through them slowly and carefully. The thermostatic air cleaner has got to be the vacume flapper on the air cleaner, right?? The EGR is what?? I've got a lot of reading to do, then I hope I can come up with some logical questions. I'm not going to do this until next winter but I really want to know what I'm doing before I actually get there.
Thanks.
Joe
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 6:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Got your books yet?
Author:  VDART [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 7:33 pm ]
Post subject:  super six
Joe-- check out old6roder's pictures----- he has a 62 wagon -- with some photos-- .. He did some custom work-- but it will give you the info to move forward. Lawrence
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9255485@N04/sets/
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
It's aluminum.
Okeh, that means it's going to be the EB-welded unit, with the prominent weld bead all around the top perimeter of each runner and the plenum, and the middle two runners not mirror-images of each other (the #4 runner is slightly reverse-curved; the #3 is straight). If that is an accurate description, you will need to check this intake very carefully for cracks in the floor below the carburetor, and if you determine there are none, then you'll want to shot-blast the intake to peen the surface and then have it powder-coated. These intakes weigh almost nothing and heat up in a big hurry, but their lack of mass makes them crack-prone and that giant weld bead is in many cases porous. As long as there are no cracks, peening + powder coating will do a good and durable job of sealing the manifold.
Quote:
The thermostatic air cleaner has got to be the vacume flapper on the air cleaner, right?
Yup, and there's a sheetmetal "stove" that surrounds the central collector area of the exhaust manifold, to supply hot air.
Quote:
The EGR is what?
The vacuum-operated valve on the outboard end of the intake manifold.
Author:  Joe Colby [ Sat Apr 11, 2009 4:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Lawrence, Thanks, the photos are excellent. Dan, your point is well taken, I've got all the books on your list. I guess it's time to actually open them.
You have described the intake correctly. "Shot blast" would be more heavy duty than the old Black Beauty slag?
I just looked down the throat of the intake, there are hairline cracks there. Is that OK or am I dead in the water??
You've still got me confused on the EGR. The old brain cells just aren't working like they're supposed to. I'll dig out the books and see what I can find.
Thanks guys. You have no idea how much help you are to us in the clueless group.
Joe
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 11, 2009 6:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I've got all the books on your list. I guess it's time to actually open them.
Mmm...yeah, they might work a leetle better that way. :-)
Quote:
You have described the intake correctly. "Shot blast" would be more heavy duty than the old Black Beauty slag?
Yep, actual little metal balls.
Quote:
I just looked down the throat of the intake, there are hairline cracks there. Is that OK or am I dead in the water??
You yourself are presumably fine, but the intake's dead.
Quote:
You've still got me confused on the EGR.
Go in the Peterson book's chapter on emission controls.
Author:  Joe Colby [ Sat Apr 11, 2009 1:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dan, Thanks. I've done a little homework and now understand the workings of the ERG valve but can't figure out just where it sits on the intake. I'll still have to clean up the aluminum intake so it will make a pretty wall hanger. I'll be posting on the parts wanted again.
Joe
Author:  Joe Colby [ Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Dan, I'm happy to say I found the ERG valve. It wasn't on the manifold but in the bottom of a box of parts.
Another question before I do more reading, the heat riser spring has been shortened then rebent to attach it. I don't think it's going to work properly. What's the best fix on this? One more, is there any difference in the super six cast intakes? Is there one I should be looking for more than another? I'd just like to get it right this time.
Thanks again.
Joe
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sun Apr 12, 2009 5:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
If these intakes burn through? Just cleaned the soot out of the exhaust side of the plenum. I am going to RTV it. The exhaust will not burn that off.

I was wire brushing it with a drill for a while until the GF got back with coax for our new TV antennae.

Gotta figure a way to clean the inside. Crud in the plenum. Will check for cracks.

Lots of mud dauber wasp nests in the runners.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
If these intakes burn through? Just cleaned the soot out of the exhaust side of the plenum. I am going to RTV it. The exhaust will not burn that off.
Uh...yeah, it will. RTV is not a workable fix for a cracked manifold.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
If these intakes burn through? Just cleaned the soot out of the exhaust side of the plenum. I am going to RTV it. The exhaust will not burn that off.
Uh...yeah, it will. RTV is not a workable fix for a cracked manifold.
Didn't say I was going to fix it. I am going to apply a protective coating. It will probably slow down heat transfer.

I use RTV on exhaust manifolds without gaskets. Acetylene torch won't burn it.
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