I have an older Pertronix EI in my dist but recently came across a new Mopar electronic distributor and am wondering if the MOpar EI is better.
I think it will mean changing the coil and getting rid of the ballast resistor plus purchasing the module which will be over $100.00 according to some pricing.
Is it worth it to go to the Mopar EI.
It is a 65 Dart-w-a 78 Aspen motor and super six. Rebuilt and maybe 15k miles on it.

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65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

I like the Mopar ignition as it's easier to repair if it fails than the Pertronix. No need to change the coil and the Mopar system uses a ballast resistor. Better yet is a GM HEI module triggered by a Mopar electronic distributor. No ballast resistor, superior electronics and superior availability. I did an HEI swap using all used parts and it cost me less than $50.

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Joshua

You won't gain anything......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Ditto on Ed,
ya won't gain a thing. Except lose weight in the hip area. If you want to do something worthwhile add the GM HEI for a spare setup and for the experience. I have both wired in in case one dies.

Just my 2 cents.

rock
'64d100

Do the HEI upgrade. What exact distributor is it that you've come across? Part number?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My ignitions Mopar electronic dizzy on all msd6a backed by hei on cuda, mopar orange box -1988 vintage backed by hei on the SE and hei backed by hei on the charger

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Here are a couple of pics of the dist I have for possible future HEI

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65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

What's the part number on that distributor?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Part number tag is gone. Looks like a reman to me.

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Joshua

Yeah It is a reman for sure-I came across some print I overlooked prior. Are all remans garbage or enough to at least say they are not worth the effort?

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65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

Not all, if it is bushed correctly and the top plate doesn't bind, it might be fine. Some reman's get cheap pickups installed in them. It is easy enough to install a new pickup. Sometimes the parts are dropped and bent when disassembled.
You can tear it down and make sure it doesn't bind and then re-lube it. I would buy a new vacuum pod and install it if your doing a recurve for more performance. I am running a VC-208 on my rebuilt 74. It provides what I need in terms of spunk and mileage.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

What does the vacuum pod change do if the dist is recurved. I was under the impression that a recurved dist is a modification to the springs, weights and/or slots the weights are limited by. The vac advance pod on my reman unit looks new and is easy enough to test-w-a vac gauge ubt what else should I be wary of regarding the vac pod. I'm not recurving the dist-no dist machine around here and I'm not inclined to do any performance trial and error-w-the dist. I'm having enough trouble getting it run as I'd like it to and getting a BBP 8 1/4 rear plus a power steering from manual swap.
Thanks-Howard

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65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

ppsi,

If you have new can you should at least put a hand vacuum to it to see when the advance begins and when it ends, for your own knowledge. Once you have a vacuum gage in your vehicle (I personally would't run without one becaue they are so informative and cheap) you can relate vacuum to advance and maximize both. Because the pods are adjustable internally, I tested all the common ones and posted a table of working range, onset and end of advance some while back, maybe last fall. Also there is a lot of action in threads about this that is good reading. The VC 208 is a good cvan, but because of overlap in range that you can adjust, you can make several cans work in the 208's range.

You don't HAVE to concern yourself with the can. You can run pretty good and not touch one. As with many things, if you hadn't experienced what can be, the pretty good might suuit you fine.

rock
'64d100

ppsi,

You dont' need a machine to recurve a distributor. Just follow Doc's guide (do a search for the four .jpg files) based on the weight of your vehicle. After recurving mine, took three tries, but I had slight diversion and fun for a few weeks with the light MOPAR Racing springs. Got tired of burning rubber (that's with a 2.76 8 3/4 posi) and took Doc's advice, one medium red MOPAR primary spring and one extra long black MOPAR secondary spring. Got the spring posts adjusted just right, but the fine tuning came with the VC-208 vacuum can to finally hit 55 degrees advance. I settled on unscrewing it 3 turns out for maximum punch and over all best mileage.

With a little fine tuning you can make that 78 block hit 30 mpg. I ran 28 mpg consistently on mine.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I thought I had read everything here on distributor recurving and I’ve done a LOT of searches but I don't think I’ve never seen this chart. I’ll go look again but if anyone finds it, I’d appreciate it if they posted a link.

Danny