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| Disc Drum M/C won't push fluid on disc side! https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34974 |
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| Author: | marc426 [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 6:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Disc Drum M/C won't push fluid on disc side! |
Hi there, The title pretty much says it al... I've just changed my M/C (K-H 4pots disc brakes setup) and though it does push fluid correctly on the rear drums, almost nothing comes out on the disc brake outlet... Has anyone ever experienced that? Thanks, Marc |
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| Author: | stephaniebrite77 [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 7:47 am ] |
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Is your M/C new, remanufactured, or used? |
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| Author: | marc426 [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Apparently that'd be a reman. A1-Cardone #A1101326 |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Why was the mc replaced, what was the problem you were trying to solve previously? Did you bleed the cylinder before you put it on the car? They have cylinder bleeder kits, basically a small hose and outlet fitting, that you route back into the reservoir. You can fab something up easily enough to do the same thing, that way you can see how much fluid is coming out of the cylinder directly. Or heck just undo the lines and put an empty can under it and have someone slowly press the pedal. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Apparently that'd be a reman.
That's probably the problem. Cardone = junk. Get a new master cylinder.
A1-Cardone #A1101326 |
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| Author: | MikeH [ Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hello Marc,I know thats a pretty irritating situation. It must be bench bled before install. It has an air lock. If using the usually supplied bench bleed kit fails to work,try this: with m/cyl in a bench vise, hold two fingers lightly over ports & depress piston, when it bottoms seal ports tightly & release piston - after piston stops - momentarily release fingers & reapply.Repeat process-usually takes 3 to 4 times. This has never failed to work for me. |
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| Author: | marc426 [ Wed Apr 22, 2009 1:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the answers, I've actually undone the unions and just a small squirt comes out. Does that sound like an air lock? About the reason of replacing it was just because the old one was... old and a bit rusty so I thought it'd be good to replace it before getting ot the road again. MikeH, I don't understand everything, you actually push the M/C and then seal the port with your finger? So that when it's released, there's vacuum? I don't get everything but it sounds to me like sthg that could work so I'd like to know more. Thanks, Marc |
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| Author: | marc426 [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 11:45 pm ] |
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Heeeelp! |
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| Author: | Eric W [ Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:32 am ] |
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Sounds like you have an internal leak in the master cylinder. If the rubber cups are installed around the pistons backwards, fluid will pass from one chamber to another, or not push any fluid at all. Take it back and try another one. I went through the same thing awhile back and went through 2 M/C's before finding one that worked. |
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| Author: | marc426 [ Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi everyone, Worked on it this weekend and it seems like it was a bad bench bleeding. The M/C will now push fluid into the calipers. I bled the system all around and it seemed like fine... BUT... though the pedal is firm, it has a very long stroke and once, while I was testing the firmness, the pedal gave me an impression of "going through" and ever since it has a longer stroke. Just testing by moving the car by hand, you really have to push it to the end for the brakes to start biting. Any idea? Thanks, Marc |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:29 am ] |
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If you repeatedly/quickly pump the pedal, does its stroke shorten any? |
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| Author: | marc426 [ Mon Apr 27, 2009 3:48 am ] |
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mmm... not really! I know that'd mean some bubbles in the system right? |
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:15 pm ] |
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Apply the parking brake and see if the pedal is any better. Have you tried adjusting the pedal free play? Danny |
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