Did a search on this and found some good info.
I came to the conclusion that the plate , hence its name, is definitely necessary for the honing process to avoid warpage in the cylinder bore after torquing things down.

Is a honing plate necessary for boring?

Or, bore without the plate and hone with?

Also does anyone have one available to rent?

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

I'm pretty sure Doug has one.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

You bore without the plate like normal and finish hone with the torque plate to get the cylinders round under stress.

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Joshua

What would it take to make one of these Jobbies? I have a friend with a machine shop.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Get a scrap block and cut the top of it off.. Send to to the machine shop to have it made flat / true.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That's it? I thought it was a solid chunk of metal. Thanks Greg.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

I built my own! What i did was get a piece of 1 inch steel ($70) and i took it to a shop near me that has a water jet and i had the six bore holes cut out ($120) and then i took the plate home and clamped it to a head, and used that as a guide to drill all of the bolt holes (free!).

I guess you could make one from a solid chunk, but I went on the cheap after Scrapping a block from a clutch explision..

I jsut got the biggest sawzall blades I could find.. I used 5 I think to cut through it all Then Just have the machine shop true it up.


I beileve it serves the same purpose for a fraction of the price/ time.

Greg[/i]

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I wonder if my boss would get cheesed if I borrowed the BIG angle grinder and a wheel...we just use it to open up concrete holes the
general contractors can't seem to measure and layout correctly....

-D.Idiot

Just found a company yother.com that produces a nice looking honing/torque plate for the slant. Problem is the price is not so nice. Even gots pics.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

I have a different question about the Honing/Torque plate. If you are doing a large over bore say .105 or so do you bore the block to those demisions first and then cut 1" off?
Anyone know?
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

That would sound like the right way to do it. Bore the junk block to the largest bore you're likely to use and lop the top off. That way it's good for any size from .105 and below. It would be tricky to find someone that is set up to bore just a honing plate I would think. I may be bass ackwards though. I usually am...

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Wassup Hones LOL

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

I have seen information from some pretty serious engine builders who claim that putting spacers on a set of head bolts and torquing them in will accomplish the same thing as a plate. Their theory is that it is the pull of the bolts themselves that distorts the block, not the head/plate.

I have no clue if they are correct or blowing smoke.

Just for information sake, my motor has been run with bores that were finished w/o a plate once, and with a plate. It was .001 second quicker after being done with a plate, but 1.5 MPH slower.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Smokey Yunick wrote that when he was putting racing small block together he had to carve up his torque plate so that it better simulated the load of the head. Using a plain single thickness plate didn't distort the cylinder walls the same as the head. Small Chevys have a row of very short head bolts on the outside of the V. We're lucky in that all our head bolts are the same length and the head bolt bosses the same thickness.

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Joshua