I've recently acquired a non-running 1985 Dodge D150 with a slant 6 that I'm trying to get running. It's my first carburated vehicle and the vacuum lines, emissions and ignition system are confusing me.

I have a new weber 38 /38 that I'm going to use to replace the stock carb, and I found a clifford intake and exhaust manifold on ebay for a decent price I'm going to use also. I'd like to remove the EGR system and the air pump, but keep the vapor canister and PCV system. Unfortunately, the weber only has one vacuum line and I have no clue if I can tee it off enough to provide vacuum to the vapor canister, the PCV system, and the ignition system.

Ignition System

My 85 slant does not have a vacuum advance distributor. Instead, it looks like a vacuum line is running to the driver's side fender, to a box labeled "ESA" on the routing diagram. Is this the lean burn computer? My distributor has a small electrical connector running to/from it (pick-up coil?). Does this provide the ESA with the engine speed? I haven't opened up the wire loom, but I'm guessing the ESA took vacuum and engine speed information to electronically advance my timing. My stock carburetor did not have electrical connections to it, and the exhaust had no oxygen sensor in it when I removed it. What other sensors should feed into the ESA?

I have many vacuum questions I'll save for another post, but this may be related to the ESA. I have three vacuum lines running to the fender on the passenger side, close to the firewall, that run into something that's connected to the wiring harness. What the heck is that?

It's the "computer."

Almost everyone here will tell you to get rid of it and your distributor and switch to EI or HEI ignition and an electronic distributor with a vacuum advance.

Welcome on the board. Get these three books as quickly as you can.
Easy enough...
Smart thinking.
No. You'll need to add a large-bore vacuum tap to the plenum area of the intake manifold (the existing tap on the rearmost runner won't do the job) for the PCV and the vapor canister. Plumb in the vapor can as described here.

The distributor vacuum spark advance requires a ported vacuum signal (no vacuum with throttle plates closed at idle), not a manifold vacuum signal.
But it will when you dump the Lean Burn. See also HEI upgrade.
Yes.
EGR delay timer.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You might also want to read this article.

Thanks for the welcome to the board. I'm having fun working on an old truck. I found this link in your book suggestions very helpful < http://u225.torque.net/haynes_instructions.html >.

Vacuum questions:
How do I add a large-bore vacuum tap the the plenum of the intake manifold? On the stock and clifford manifolds, is the plenum the part of the manifold under the carburetor but before the runners?

I'm not sure if the one vacuum source on the weber 38/38 DGES is a ported vacuum or a manifold vacuum signal. I can't find much information on this carburetor. Clifford sold it to me (my first mistake) and the support they gave me was suspect.

Regarding the EGR delay timer, can I remove the timer and the hard vacuum lines that run to it? Do I need to cover the remaining connectors?

Ignition questions:

I'm sold on the HEI upgrade, thanks for the link and the time put into the original article. However, I'd like to know more about how it works compared to the lean burn system. I cut my teeth on a '92 1.6L Honda engine that spins to 8400rpm and makes 170hp stock; I'm more familiar with an ECU that controls fuel and ignition maps for two different camshaft profiles. If my lean burn distributor doesn't have the mechanical vacuum advance needed for the HEI upgrade, how does the lean burn system advance the timing? Does it read off of some data table using engine load (vacuum signal) and engine speed?

Also, if the weber doesn't have a ported vacuum source, can I retard the timing at idle (assuming I've installed a vacuum advance distributor)?

Thanks!

Can you see/tell if the inside of the port is above or below the throttle plate when closed? (above: 'ported', below:'manifold').

Oh, good. Those are important instructions.
Drill, then tap, then install a pipe thread to hose barb fitting made out of brass.
Yes.
Typical Clifford. See here, here, and many others.
If you will not be using EGR, then yes, you can remove all components of the EGR system.
The electrical connectors can just hang free. Be sure to remove or securely cap any vacuum lines you won't be using.
Oh, that's easy. HEI (or Chrysler electronic ignition, or any of many other ignition systems down to and including a basic pre-1972 points/condenser system) works reliably and allows good performance, drivability, and economy (PDE). Lean Burn doesn't.
Yup, that's exactly what it does. Certainly an innovative idea for its time, and obviously the principles would be used for many years onward, but the (fixed) calibration of this particular system doesn't give good PDE, and the hardware of which this system is built is a product of its time: PRIMITIVE!
I'm not sure how the one follows from the other in your mind, or perhaps I misunderstand what you're asking. Retarded base timing really spoils PDE. You'll need to figure out a way to have (or approximate) ported vacuum to the vacuum advance or you'll be giving up a good deal of PDE. If you find your carburetor has no ported vacuum source, you can approximate it by installing a closed-throttle switch, either NC or NO. This switch would be tripped when the throttle is at idle position. You'd use it to control a vacuum solenoid connected to manifold vacuum, with a restrictor orifice in the line between the solenoid and the distributor. Vacuum solenoids are easily found all over any wrecking yard; they're used extensively in '90s vehicles. You'd want a venting vacuum solenoid which will drop the downstream line (from solenoid to distributor) to atmospheric pressure when power is not applied, not a holding vacuum solenoid (which would seal off the line to the distributor, thus retaining its vacuum).

You may also want to do the fuel line mod.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

From what I've gathered from the immense knowledge on this forum, plus my own experience - IF you have catalytic converters in your exhaust then either: (a) don't remove the air pump as you'll melt and block your exhaust; or (b) plan and budget to remove the cats too.

Having driven with blocked cats and paid for a new exhaust without cats (since a previous owner removed the air pump) I can assure you that a blocked exhaust damages your performance way more than the air pump. The air pump is probably kinder to your bank balance too.

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'86 Dodge Ram B250 Dayvan, 225, Mopar ECU EI conversion w/ Pertronix Flamethrower.

Isn't the fuel filter already behind the alternator by 1985?

When you make the swap let us know how it goes. I have a Weber 32/36 and I think a 38/38 is in my future...I would like to hear of other people's expriences with the 38/38...

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Slanted D150