i got a set of the mopar performance advance springs for my slant a while back and i'm putting them in soon but i got the dist. apart and i got one heavy spring and one light er spring and the new springs look like light springs

http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/uu20 ... G_0327.jpg

is there any performance out of the mopar springs?
any of yall used the mopar springs?
how did it work on the street?
or are they just for racing?

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Race only, pretty useless on the street. The MP super-lightweight springs dump in all the advance in a hurry. Big ping problems unless you retard the base timing so far that starting and driveability go bad. You're better off with your existing '73 springs until you can do a proper scientific recurve (and even after that you'll still wind up with one heavy and one light).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Pretty much unless you are drag racing those are useless....

If you really need to get a smidge more advance out of your old 15L...

Keep the heavy spring and buy a Mr.Gasket GM spring kit... use a black spring in place of your current OEM light spring... set to 5 BTDC initial and work up from there... that's a good start for a 'stock'/BBD equipped car...but by no means the 'optimum' curve...

using a dial back timing light, tachometer, vacc gauge and pump, and mapping the advance to rpm, and a fair bit of test driving you can get things dialed in a bit better...it may not seem like it for the investment in time and gas, but it rewards in crisper throttle response, 'sporty' feel, and better mileage...

-D.Idiot

1. Yes, if you have a car for drag racing.
2. Yes, I tried a set in my daily driver for about a week till my wife complained. Every time I touched the gas pedal the rear end would break loose and that is with a 2.76 posi. It was ridiculous.....
3. Not very practical for the street since it allows the mechanical advance to come on so quick.
4. Yes, just for racing at WOT and 30 to 32 degrees total timing.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

ted
what was in the engine(besides the springs) that you had enough power to break the tires loose with 2.76's ?


where can i get the mr gaskit kit from?

see this is gonna be more of a street/strip car i got cliff headers, offy intake, erson 270 cam, and a good port and polish, oversized valves and .90 off the head

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

THIS ONE?"

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

also i have 2 more questions
why does my distributor have a heavy spring on one side and a light spring on the other

and where can i get a distributor gaer new

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

928G would be the one...probably a whole whopping $9-11 from your local parts store... new gear dan might have a lead on OEM ones, "Help!"/Dormann used to carry an aftermarket version that you will have to redrill to get the play out of it if installed with their 'hole'...

The light spring is to govern the initial wind up and govern the mech advance at low rpm...at higher rpm the weights will overcome the tension on the light spring and have to be slowed down by the big spring....

-D.Idiot

is there a difference between the vacume advance on a manual trany and an automatic? the guy at car quest said that you could only get the one for the automatic there.i dont think it would make a diffrence but just askin

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

theslantingsix,
Torque! When a bad oil filter wiped out my engine I asked Doc for his recipe on a build for "Torque and Mileage". He says its good for about 160 HP with a one-barrel. You can do a search on engine builds to find it. My build is not that much different from yours except I am running a pretty loose lash, (.012 and .022). I followed Doc's advise to the letter and he is right on. The biggest impact was his four page guide on recurving the distributor. That really brought the engine to life. I use a VC-208 vacuum advance can which provides 22 degrees of advance and allot of adjustment. I have been running mine three turns out but really love the feel of 5 turns out. I run 16 degree initial timing and another 16 mechanical and 22 degrees from the can, on top.
If you want your engine to be sluggish and not as lively, run 5 degrees initial.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

OEM vacc. pods yes, there is a difference...now you are stuck with a fixed set of pods to work with... you will unfortunately have to see where your mech advance winds up then try to tailor a vacc. can to work with it
(VC-185, VC-194, VC-209, VC-239)

-D.Idiot