Slant Six Forum :: d150 drip edge repair

I have seen your model of truck with shaved rails somewhere on Moparts, but can't recall exactly where it was. I think it was under "Show us your trucks". They look pretty cool like that! This particular truck was amazing.

But it's not as easy as it would seem. If you start behind the door and chop off a little at a time, like already suggested, and tack it as you go around, you will still have something like a 3/8" gap to fill as the pinch seam is pretty thick. You'll have to "sneak up" on welding the bead, as the heat will warp your roof; weld a spot, let it cool, weld some more, repeat. Then you'll be grinding down your welds in the same manner. When you get to the front is where you'll really have fun.

I plan on saving mine. They leak like crazy, but after hitting them with a brass wheel in a drill and applying JB Weld, it should be good for 25 more years.

You can search on line for more info; some chevy and rat rod sites have a lot of info on welding the roof, eliminating drip rails, etc. This will get you started: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/how ... index.html

Author:	Mister_Perkins [ Sat May 02, 2009 12:00 pm ]
Post subject:	d150 drip edge repair
The drip edge on my 87 d150 isnt in the greatest shape. Is there any way I can buy an aftermarket drip edge and replace my OE drip edge? I am talking the part that runs from behind the doors up around the top of the windshield. Thanks!

Author:	Mister_Perkins [ Sat May 02, 2009 4:13 pm ]
Post subject:
I was thinking of welding a new piece in there and wrapping it around, tacking it on the back side and putting 3m sealer in there. Think that will work alright?

Author:	Mister_Perkins [ Sun May 03, 2009 11:15 am ]
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::: anyone? Suggestions?

Author:	oldblue [ Mon May 04, 2009 8:30 pm ]
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Have you thought about brazing to seal the rails?Some people remove the rails completly[shaving].If you go the removal route, cut a small section out at a time.Tack the top to side.Then cut some more.Repeat till done.Good luck and keep us updated on progress.

Author:	coconuteater64 [ Mon May 04, 2009 8:57 pm ]
Post subject:
I have seen your model of truck with shaved rails somewhere on Moparts, but can't recall exactly where it was. I think it was under "Show us your trucks". They look pretty cool like that! This particular truck was amazing. But it's not as easy as it would seem. If you start behind the door and chop off a little at a time, like already suggested, and tack it as you go around, you will still have something like a 3/8" gap to fill as the pinch seam is pretty thick. You'll have to "sneak up" on welding the bead, as the heat will warp your roof; weld a spot, let it cool, weld some more, repeat. Then you'll be grinding down your welds in the same manner. When you get to the front is where you'll really have fun. I plan on saving mine. They leak like crazy, but after hitting them with a brass wheel in a drill and applying JB Weld, it should be good for 25 more years. You can search on line for more info; some chevy and rat rod sites have a lot of info on welding the roof, eliminating drip rails, etc. This will get you started: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/how ... index.html

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d150 drip edge repair https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35160	Page 1 of 1

Author:	F/6-866 [ Tue May 05, 2009 5:06 am ]
Post subject:	Drip edge repair
I used POR patch at this point on my 71 D 100 and it worked well.

Author:	Mister_Perkins [ Tue May 05, 2009 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:
is it okay to completely remove the drip edge?

Author:	Reed [ Tue May 05, 2009 4:44 pm ]
Post subject:
Unless you do the above mentioned process of welding the roof back to the sides of the cab, removing the drip edge will remove your roof. Personally, I like drip edges. I have owned a couple cars without drip edges and I hated it. Any time I would roll down the window (like in a drive-through food place) I would get dripped on, badly. I say repair it.

Author:	Mister_Perkins [ Tue May 05, 2009 5:50 pm ]
Post subject:
Well, I kind of repaired it.. I took a piece of tin and cut it to the length of the part damaged and welded a new piece in there. Then I used 3m window epoxy and spread it inside. It looks really junky though because the weld beads are really noticable. I think if I grind them down it might look better, but We'll just have to wait and see. I'll post pictures soon.

Author:	ESP47 [ Fri May 08, 2009 6:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: I have seen your model of truck with shaved rails somewhere on Moparts, but can't recall exactly where it was. I think it was under "Show us your trucks". They look pretty cool like that! This particular truck was amazing. But it's not as easy as it would seem. If you start behind the door and chop off a little at a time, like already suggested, and tack it as you go around, you will still have something like a 3/8" gap to fill as the pinch seam is pretty thick. You'll have to "sneak up" on welding the bead, as the heat will warp your roof; weld a spot, let it cool, weld some more, repeat. Then you'll be grinding down your welds in the same manner. When you get to the front is where you'll really have fun. I plan on saving mine. They leak like crazy, but after hitting them with a brass wheel in a drill and applying JB Weld, it should be good for 25 more years. You can search on line for more info; some chevy and rat rod sites have a lot of info on welding the roof, eliminating drip rails, etc. This will get you started: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/how ... index.html You filled the entire rail in with JB Weld? How did that work out? No more leaks? I'm currently looking for something other than the 3M sealer because it cracks and splits after a couple summers in the sun and eventually leaks again.

Author:	coconuteater64 [ Fri May 08, 2009 11:56 pm ]
Post subject:
not the whole rail, just the seams. Very thin layer, not like a glob.

Author:	65Dodge100 [ Sat May 09, 2009 4:30 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I'm currently looking for something other than the 3M sealer because it cracks and splits after a couple summers in the sun and eventually leaks again. Which 3M sealer are you using? Joint and Seam Sealer will stay for many years if the surface is properly prepared first. Spot welded body seams move with body flex and heat expansion. If you apply something that hardens it will crack and pop out. Seam sealer dries flexable. Roof gutters will leak just a little and you canâ€™t tell, especially on a truck. Once water is inside, itâ€™s protected and never dries. The roof will rust away from the inside and you donâ€™t know about it until a hole pops through the paint. Danny

Author:	ESP47 [ Sat May 09, 2009 3:12 pm ]
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Well of course now that you ask I can't find the tube of it. Do you apply that with a caulking gun or just a squeeze tube? This was just in a squeeze tube and it was colored blue and white. It didn't level very well at all. You couldnt apply it and smooth it out with your fingers or anything. It was tough to sand down as well.

Author:	65Dodge100 [ Sat May 09, 2009 6:22 pm ]
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Author:	ESP47 [ Sun May 17, 2009 3:31 pm ]
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Good info, thanks. The stuff I was using was just not smoothing out at all and no where near the way bathtub caulk would. It would just stick to you instead of smoothing out. I'll be checking that stuff out here shortly when I start prepping my car for paint. Thanks!