I've tried searching this form and the net for clear stats for the 225. I want to know what TDC is, what a good compression should be, what the valves should be at, etc...

I'm currently running at 5degrees over TDC although that seems a little ruff, around 25 compression, and i read this article(http://www.allpar.com/mopar/valve-adjustment.html) and it said to make the valves loose because of the lack of lead in our gas so I did what it said and put them at .22 exhaust and .12 intake

Also when I look at my exhaust it seems like its running rich because there's a lot of white cloud coming out so I had my uncle that's a mechanic adjust the carb and it ran well for a while but then my battery died and it started running really ruff and almost stalled at lights or when I was stopped So I replaced the battery and it was still running ruff so i put the carb back where it was.

I haven't gotten city mpg but I took a freeway trip and calculated my mpg and i got 15... is that normal?

So any stats, knowledge, or other things I should check would be very helpful, thanks for your time!

elephant, spend some more time with the search button. Do your research it will come! Welcome.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Are you looking for a numeric figure? If so, you won't get one. TDC is that moment in a given cylinder's operation when the piston is at the top of it's stroke, no longer moving up, but not yet moving down in the cylinder.

The advertised compression ratio is 8.2:1. If you're looking for a psi figure, then you should like to see 100-130 psi on the compression guage. Less will still run, but the engine is starting to get tired or something is not right internally.
Do you mean 5 degrees after TDC? If so, that's a little too late.....5 degrees before TDC wouold be better
Oh, man! If that's what is showing on your compression tester, then you have problems. Is it the same for all 6 cylinders or just one of them?
OK......that's acceptable.....a bit loose, but it should still run reasonably well.
You have your symptom colors mixed up. Running rich would give you a black, sooty exhaust that smells rather "gassy". The white smoke is typically steam and/or water vapor being condensed as it comes out of your hot exhaust and cools in the air. If you have white exhaust, and the above compression number of 25 is only on one cylinder, I'd guess you have a bad head gasket that is leaking coolant into that cylinder. It's also possible you have a cracked head or block, but the head gasket is more likely.

Good luck with it, and keep us advised as to what you find. We're here to help is we can.

Roger

TDC= Top Dead Center. That is the point at which the #1 piston is at the very top of its stroke. By good compression do you mean compressionin the sense of the PSI reading on a compression guage or compression in the sense of a compression ratio such as 9:1? Compression read with a guage should be above 135-140 PSI and within 10 PSI across all cylinders. A "good" compression ratio depends on the build of your motor.
If this means that you are setting your base timing at 5 degrees after TDC and you have 25 PSI compression in all your cylinders, then I am very surprised your motor is running. Some slant six motors are specified to have base timing set at 5 degrees after top dead center, most slant six motors run best with the base timing set at 5-15 degrees BEFORE top dead center. 25 PSI is incredibly low compression for a running motor. This suggests seriously misadjusted valves, a cracked valve, a blown head gasket, or some other component failure. Even a badly worn running motor usually gets around 100 PSI.

Setting the valve lash to .22 exhaust and .12 intake is running your valves far too tight. This is probably the cause of the lack of compression and the rough running. Try setting the valve lash to .022 exhaust and .012 intake.
White smoke is usually normal on cold startup. It is condensation evaporating out of the exhaust line. However, if you have a leak between the cooling system and one or more combustion chambers then the coolant will cause white smoke.

White clouds are not caused by a carb running too rich, and a dead battery won't make a carb run rich either.

To help us help you better, please give us the year, make, and model of your car, and go get the factory srvice manual for your car. It sounds like your are still pretty new to the slant six, which is fine, but it means that you need to spend some time getting familiar with your car and how all the different systems work.

I suspect most of your problem is due to the very misadjusted valves and you need to double check the setting of the carburetor and your base timing settings.

Always a good start. Welcome on the board.
Means "Top dead centre". It's the point at which the piston stops moving upward and starts moving downward. It occurs between the compression and power strokes (which is the TDC event relevant to ignition timing and valve lash) and between exhaust and intake.

Did you mean to ask what the base ignition timing should be? That depends on what year and model your car is, which exact engine and emission control configuration it has, and other parameters.
Somewhat dependent on engine production year, but for now consider okeh anything above 110 or so (at cranking speed with choke and throttle blocked open and all spark plugs removed) with good evenness among cylinders.
See valve adjustment procedure
Bad info, non-sequitur
White smoke = burning coolant
Blue-white smoke = burning oil
Black smoke = running rich
Carburetor operation and repair manuals (and some training movies) are posted here for free download.
Depends on year, make, model, transmission, etc.

Go get these three books right away.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow you guys are fast! Thanks for the warm welcomes, I feel right at home

Well this might make me sound stupid maybe it was 120 for the compression test and yes I meant psi. I just remember my uncle saying that it seemed low but he didn't seem to worried about it so I'm probably wrong when its in the 20s.That still is low if its supposed to be a 130-140. Number 4 or 5 cylinder is in that zone but its just one out of all six.

For the TDC I meant for adjusting the vibration dampener, at least that's what I think I want...

My car is a 65 valiant - Its my first car and my first engine I've really gotten to work on so please excuse my lack of knowledge

Um, the vibration dampener is not something one adjusts. Do you mean setting your base timing?