Does anyone have clear pictures of the clutch linkage for a \6 motor?
Z-bar, rods, and especially the return spring. PLEASE

If you do, and would not mind emailing it to me I would appreciate it.

Sometimes a real picture blows away the images in the FSM

THANKS THANKS THANKS!

dpquinn@optonline.net

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Dan Quinn
64 dart 170

Quinn,

Do you want pics of separate parts, or assembled on a vehicle?

rock
'64d100

Pictures of it installed in the car are really what I am after. THnak you

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Dan Quinn
64 dart 170

I can take a couple of pics of that set-up on my 65 Valiant slant 6 3 speed if you want. 67 and up might be different - don't know about that.

A 65 would be great, I have a 64 Thank you

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Dan Quinn
64 dart 170

Just emailed you with 4 pics - 3 of the clutch linkage in the slant and 1 of the same in my 65 Barracuda (motor/exhaust hid most of that.

Hi, new here but not new to MOPARS. I have a couple SL6 cars. I know this thread is old but any chance I can get those pics? I'm working on a 65 dart with SL6 and 4 speed that I picked up half put together. I've read all the posts about this subject but saw no pics. I have some ideas on how to make what I have work but before I start cutting things I want to figure out what the pieces I have came out of. Any pics of original SL6 clutch linkage and torque shaft parts loose or installed would be appreciated.

ski

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ski

I've had the linkage in and out several times and know what I have to do to make it work. I'm thinking the BH is from and early A and maybe the pivot that bolts to the bell is later or maybe a truck piece? I need to modify it to get the ball up and forward a bit. I drilled one new hole in it to get it in position temporarily and the clutch operated great. One bolt will not hold it in position for very many pedal throws. Here's a pic of the whole mess. Any ideas what it came out of? The block is coded F225 which I assume is a 1970 225 but it has a 2 barrel carb but which makes me think parts from a newer car or truck may be involved. I also plan on welding a plate to the frame to back up the pivot that bolts to the inner fender. Any reason not to do this?

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ski

You might want to reinforce the z-bar while you have the welder out. It looks like one of the legs is a little bent already(?)

Yes it's bent but although you can't really see it in that pic it's supposed to be. Whether or not it's an original piece is uncertain (anyone?) but that bend allows this piece to fit between the exhaust and bell. I welded up the bell pivot and installed everything. Works great. I'll post some pics after I get new studs for the head pipe and button it all up.

ski

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ski

Here's a pic of the modified pivot (ugly weld but penetration was deep) and the whole thing back in car with exhaust head pipe hooked back up. Everything seems to work good with no interference and the pedal feels great. I visually checked that the pressure plate disengages fully with pedal depressed. I need to hook up a spring. No hole or good spot for one on the throw out fork so I'll sandwich a metal tab between two jam nuts on the back end of the rod and drill a hole in it. Next step is to get the driveshaft cut. Prior owner installed an 8 3/4 so this one is too long now.

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ski