Slant Six Forum :: Head water temp vs upper radiator water temp

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Head water temp vs upper radiator water temp https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35472	Page 1 of 1

Author:	rftroy [ Sat May 23, 2009 12:45 am ]
Post subject:	Head water temp vs upper radiator water temp
Has anyone ever made an accurate (+/- 3 deg F max. error) measurement of the temperature of the coolant near the thermostat, or other areas at the front of the head, while simultaneously accurately measuring the temperature of the coolant in the radiator top tank near the inlet? I have just installed a pair of Spal fans with a programmable controller, and I am trying to set the fan control temperatures. I installed the Spal temp sensor into the top of the head next to the thermostat. The thermostat copper pellet and the Spal sensor are about 1/2 inch apart. I am using a Fluke multimeter with a thermocouple to measure water temperature. The advertised accuracy is 1% of meter reading. I could try to bound the problem with a simple heat transfer calculation, but it would be much better to have empirical data. Has anyone done this? Bob

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sat May 23, 2009 9:23 am ]
Post subject:
Robert, I thought about that when I installed my 16" electric fan but opted to keep it simple after burning up two different controllers. I put a GM 210 degree sensor switch in the radiator tank. There are two plugs in the SL6 radiator to choose from. I went to this simple system after loosing the fancy controllers. It is more reliable, especially when sitting in traffic for hours, the radiator never gets too hot and the engine temp never goes past the half way point on the dash gauge. I am running a 195 Super stat and it seems to keep the engine just right for best mileage. The engine block always stays cooler than the radiator after shut off because the thermostat will stay open and dump all the hot water from the heat soak on shut down into the radiator. I have had good success with this set up for over two years now more than 50,000 miles since the rebuild and fan installation. I figure since there are thousands of GM cars running with this setup it can't be that bad........... The switch is not cheap, about $20, but it works consistently. I think it is as good as the GM HEI mod. As an extra safety precaution I wired in a manual over ride switch so I turn it on any time.

Author:	slantzilla [ Sat May 23, 2009 1:34 pm ]
Post subject:
I had my Autometer mechanical temp gauge in that position and it would not read at idle. Engine had to be revved up some to get a proper reading.

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