Hello everyone this is my first post. I have recently acquired a 1986 dodge d150 regular cab short bed.
And im looking for some recommendations. I've done some reading on the fourm already about deleting the smog pumps and etc. You guy have any recommendations for nice cam for a stock motor with a Clifford 2 barrel carb intake and headers? Im not trying to build a race motor. Just something with a nice sound and able to hold up a little better with modern traffic. Thanks for all your help!

You already bought the Clifford stuff, or you're thinking of buying it?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

86 would be hydraulic lifters
That narrows the choices a bit

I have not bought anything yet but I like that setup

If you are up to it, I would reccommend pulling the head and haveing it milled to increase the compression ratio. That alone (milling within reason) will be more effective (power gain to money spent) then the other mods. But don't just go "wacking" off metal. You want to take some measurmrnts, and figure out what amount to mill off to get around a honest 8.5 to 8.7 to one CR. With the hydraulic engine car, the amount milled is more critical due to the lifter preload. If you mill too much the lifters might bottom out, and require shorter pushrods. A higher lift cam, than stock, would offset some of that problem due to the smaller base circle of the cam lobe.
Then, of course there is "project creep". While the head is off, could do a valve job (head might be ready for one).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I dont mind changing the cam over. im looking at a head that has been worked milled .080" and the chambers are 50cc with a valve job to put on the engine. The pistons and bottom end are stock

Why? What is it you like about that setup?

Clifford has a long, consistent, ugly reputation for crummy parts quality, misapplied parts, and scornful/nonexistent customer support. You can do a whole lot better, and headers are not necessarily the best/a good idea.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I was unaware of those issues from them. I like too just let the engine breathe better. And have a 2 barrel carb on it

Okeh, better breathing is certainly a good goal, but it will pay to put some careful and informed thought into parts selection. It is super easy to get carried away by sexy parts. If you just go "Hey, yeah, there's a bigger carb and intake setup and headers" and get out your credit card, you are highly likely to wind up with a result much less optimal and much more expensive than it could have been.

To wind up with a truck that runs well and works reliably, choose parts only after figuring out, in specific detail, what you want the truck to do (and not-do, and do differently than it presently does), then run that list by experts and get guidance, then filter that through your budget (for money, time, and effort), get more guidance, and [I]then[/i] buy parts.

I don't mean to piss in your Wheaties or on your project, but over a whole lot of years I have seen so many cases of chronic heartbreak that start out along the lines of "I bought [list of parts] because they looked/sounded good to me". The heartbreak does not end until the owner either gives up in despair and mothballs or offloads the vehicle, or starts all over again from a more reasonable, thought-through starting point.

So: what kind of driving conditions will you be facing with this truck? Mostly in-town, mostly freeway, a mix? What size tires will you be running, and what transmission, and what rear axle ratio? What's your budget range look like for this round of upgrades?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Welcome to the forum Chris.
Lots of good information here and folks who can help.

I would look for a complete Super Six system, that would be the easiest to install and it has all the factory parts.
Oregon cams will work with you to recommend a good cam.
And then they will regrind your cam.

Again, Welcome!

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Hyper_pak

Supersix intake + 318 2bbl carburetor + head milling to 9:1 compression and "little more cam" is the "stage 1" for a slantsix.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

Cam and compression relate together. Higher compression can use/tolerate a bigger cam. Use of the vehicle, and trans/rear also determine engine parts.
As Dan said, Determine what you want out of the truck, then determine what parts you need to get there.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Looking at the hydraulic cam chart it looks like #1229 could be a good choice. I just put a cam in my truck very similar to that except it was a mechanical cam instead of hydraulic. @ 210 degrees duration and .440 lift works really nice in my truck and it sits and idles like a stocker. I have a 500 cfm Edelbrock on mine and it works fine. Truth is you can sometimes run into a 4barrel intake /carb just as cheap as the super sixes are going for. And the 500 is only a 500 if you run it wide open. The 4 barrel doesn't hurt a thing just cruising around and it has plenty of adjustability. Others will disagree.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Others may disagree, but
I agree with Rick!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Where can I find the cam chart rick?