Anyone ever use 1/2" head studs? Any part numbers on a similar sized bolt?

Thanks,
Tom

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Call ARP. They will sell you whatever you want whether you need it or not.

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Joshua

I did but was only looking for 7/16 at the time and they only had one that might work in a stronger material. The shank was truned down 2mm for a motorcycle application. Custom ones in another material are $600-$1000/set.

I sent them an email Friday about 1/2" already but was wondering if anyone has tried before.

The head is walking a little still with the standard studs.

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Mike did a 1/2" stud motor for spray once. He said it was not worth all the trouble you go through to do it.

I believe he bought ARP studs, so they do have an application that works.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks 'zilla. I'll see what they say or maybe you could ask mike to see if he has a part # still?

Thanks,
Tom

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Several racers have fitted 1/2" studs and it definately can be done. When you rethread a 7/16 hole for 1/2" you will find that the hole is already larger than called for with a 1/2" tap, that means the threads will not be shaped quite right and it will not be as strong as it could be. A machinist that I respect recommended not to do it for that reason. I do know that Mark Goodman and others did it anyway and were able to torque the nuts to 95# or more which should help to hold the head down. The tapping must be done with some precision, probably on a milling machine or the studs will not be perfectly straight. I am sure that ARP has a half inch stud that could be used, you just have to find another applcation with a similar length. Before a 7/16" kit for Slant 6s was available we used to buy the kit for the 455" Oldsmobile, maybe that or a similar motor had a 1/2" stud available. You may also have to enlarge the bolt holes in the heads slightly.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Thanks Exner Geek. I checked the head and a 1/2" drill bit will go through most of the holes. Good info. Now, I'm concerned about the meat that is left in the block as you have mentioned. Something else to ponder.

Thanks,
Tom

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Eventhough the holes are a half inch you need some extra clearance to actually drop the head on to the studs.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Agreed. Everything is test fit and measued before final assembly.

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Don't they already have a 7/16" stud kit on the market for about $75? I think I've seen these on ebay for $65. I also think I bought a set and I'll look in the garage this evening if I can remember.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, they do, I was just looking for something with a little more clamping force.

Tom

_________________
11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc