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| air conditioning https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35658 |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | air conditioning |
I would like to fix the air conditioning in my 74 Swinger. It had been working until last summer until the clutch on the compressor went out. Question: is it a relatively easy process to take off the compressor? I am trying to save a little on the labor costs and just send the compressor in to be re-manufactured. I have never done this before. |
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| Author: | raPoM [ Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Extreemly easy. You just need to have the system evacuated,then its a matter of taking off the lines,and unbolting it. |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
thanks. But evacuating the system involves what exactly? I'm trying to avoid labor costs so taking it someplace to have them evacuate the system and then leaving to take it off myself seems redundant. Let me know what's involved. Thanks! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
A/C service work is dangerous and legally regulated. If the refrigerant system needs service, you need to take it in to have it evacuated. Either that or buy a refrigerant recovery machine and a refrigerant handler's license (much more costly than taking it in). It is illegal for a non-licensed person to handle R12 refrigerant, and it is illegal to release R12 into the atmosphere — and it's really dumb to do so, too, because R12 costs money. If you aren't trained and knowledgeable in A/C work, you will cost yourself more money — and likely injure yourself and/or damage your car — if you try to wing it on your own. Take note that if the only thing wrong is the compressor clutch, the compressor needn't be removed and the refrigerant needn't be discharged. You will, however, need a fast air wrench: with the belt still on the clutch, turn the ignition switch on (engine off) and turn the A/C on so the clutch engages. Use the air wrench to remove the clutch retainer bolt. Then use the air wrench to thread a 5/8"-11 bolt into the clutch body threads. The bolt you're screwing in will contact the front of the compressor crankshaft and then, as you continue to turn it, will force the clutch and pulley assembly off the front of the compressor crankshaft. Then turn off the A/C and the ignition and the assembly will come off in your hands. The clutch coil is held to the front of the compressor with three small hex-head screws. And here is a brand-new clutch and coil assembly. It's the upgraded inertia ring style, same as I put on my '62. Installation is even easier than removal, just put the coil onto the compressor with the three hex-head screws, place the clutch on the crankshaft, install the belt, turn on ignition + A/C, and finish tightening the bolt. |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Dan. Question though: how do I diagnose that it is indeed just the clutch? I am thinking perhaps I mis-remembered something and it isn't just the clutch... |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, what are the symptoms? |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Turn the A/C and the clutch and compressor do not turn. You can hear a click, but nothing else happens. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
More detail, please. With the ignition on and engine off, putting the dash control into an A/C position gets you a loud "CLICK" from the front of the compressor? Or you're hearing a not-especially-loud "click" from under the dash? And with the engine idling if you turn the A/C on, does the engine stall (which would indicate a seized compressor)? When you say the clutch doesn't turn, do you mean the belt pulley keeps on turning but the front face of the compressor does not turn? |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: belt pulley keeps on turning but the front face of the compressor does not turn
Not trying to hijack this thread, but mine does this. What would be the cause?
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: More detail, please. With the ignition on and engine off, putting the dash control into an A/C position gets you a loud "CLICK" from the front of the compressor? Or you're hearing a not-especially-loud "click" from under the dash? And with the engine idling if you turn the A/C on, does the engine stall (which would indicate a seized compressor)? When you say the clutch doesn't turn, do you mean the belt pulley keeps on turning but the front face of the compressor does not turn?
Dan-With the ignition on, and the engine off, when you slide the A/C dash lever to "ON" there is a loud "Click" from the front of the compressor. With the engine running, when turned on, the engine keeps running, it does not stall. The pulley keeps turning but not the face of the compressor. There are no "not so loud" clicks from under the dashboard: only click is from the front of the compressor. Does that help? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 3:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yup, definitely a dead clutch. Replace it per instructions I posted earlier in this thread and you should be just fine. 75Plyduster: Same goes for you if you can get a loud "CLICK" from the compressor with ignition on and engine off, by turning the A/C control on and off as described above. If no click, then first you have to examine and diagnose the clutch control circuit. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have someone turn on the AC while you're watching the clutch. See if front plate trys to move. If it does, measure the gap between the plates (engine off) You can sometimes get away with removing some spacers on the shaft to lessen gap to get the clutch to work again (the metal plates wear away after years of use) |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do not have a fast air wrench. I believe you're speaking of that wrench that mechanics use to remove the lug nuts from tires? Must I have one to do this operation? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Have someone turn on the AC while you're watching the clutch. See if front plate trys to move.
The movable element of the clutch he most likely has in his '74 cannot readily be seen to move from the front.Quote: You can sometimes get away with removing some spacers on the shaft to lessen gap to get the clutch to work again
Pretty sure there are no spacers in his clutch, either.Quote: (the metal plates wear away after years of use)
His is a low-miles unit, think it's just plain defective.
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I do not have a fast air wrench. I believe you're speaking of that wrench that mechanics use to remove the lug nuts from tires?
Yes. You can still do this without, it's just more work. Put two sturdy round-shank screwdrivers in two of the three holes on the front face of the clutch. Put a third screwdriver between them. Brace this third screwdriver against the first two so as to hold the front plate stationary while you use an ordinary socket wrench to loosen and remove the central bolt. Do the same trick when the larger bolt you thread in to pop the clutch off the compressor hits bottom.
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