so dad and i ran the dart dry about 2 years or so ago and then parked it, he put gas in it and it fired right up, then when i went to get it about 2 weeks ago it wouldnt stay running, hadnt changed the fuel filter for a while so threw a new one on and it was fine, ran like a champ all the way from illinois, stopped several times to check fluid etc...no problems at all, so today i got it licensed and went to go fill it up, wont stay running, try swapping in the extra fuel filter i bought, wont start. so i check and the elec pump is working fine, just for giggles i blew in the gas line towards the tank, hooked it back up and it worked, that got me about 2 blocks. repeated as necesarry until it was running great, and by that point i was closer to the gas station so tried to make it, wouldnt start back up even with me blowing in the line in the middle of a two lane neighborhood with a car on either side, and by the time someone helped me push it, two behind and 2 in front trying to get through! awesome right? anyway, i went the whole 'never ever ever ever EVER try this at home route, and ran fuel line from the filter to my small emergency gas tank which i duct taped on the pass side wheel well under the hood (i know! i know!) and it ran fine all the way home. so im now planning on replacing at least all the rubber lines, probably should do the metal too huh? and i think the tank must need cleaning out, must have had crap in it below the pickup (which may or may not have a sock on it anymore, i forget) and that got mixed up when i added gas and now its causing problems. anyway, one of my two block increments an older guy said there is a chemical tank stripper/liner kit you can get, looks to be 'kreem' like 35 at JCW according to google, havent looked anywhere else local yet, also when i went to remove the rubber line from the metal it wouldnt come loose, had to cut it a couple inches above the metal line, while fighting the rubber line i managed to knock the coil wire off the cap, so i thought i was good to go and suddenly had no spark and missed that my first check after no spark. so much fun! was really hoping to get it going and cleaned out today, bummer.
so all that to say:
1. should i replace the metal line too? it sat for 9 years before i got it and we did a little cleaning in the tank (diesel and a chain shaken around) back in 03, and replaced the sending unit, replaced rubber lines, filter, and pump since then, but not the metal line.
if yes, i assume metal most the way and rubber at the ends is the safest/smartest thing to do, is that correct?
2. is metal line like brake line where you can go to a store and order how much you need, bend to fit?
3. anyone have any experience with kreem? seems to work according to reviews as long as you take your time and do it right, and cheaper then a new tank....
not looking forward to pulling the tank again by myself, but at least its mostly empty...
(also, its a 67 dart gt)
thanks!

I've heard horror stories about kreme on various motorcycle forums................

No complaints about the POR15 tank product though.....

So check out the POR15 tank product.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

yikes, thats getting closer to a new gas tank...still about half that i guess...hmmm...i have heard of por15 at least, but i feel like if im going to get up around 100 with shipping and have to turn my tank all around and let it dry and such, maybe i should just get a new tank...any second opinions?

Good on you for using just enough jerry rig to get out of a bad situation. I hope the fix goes smooth for ya.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Glimpsed the POR15 instructions....

They say you don't really need a sealer unless there's pinhole leaks.


You might just get away with a gravel and acid fix....

Put some gravel in tank and roll it around to breakup the big flakes, then some acid..........

Neutralize, wash it out and check for leaks.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

the por 15 acid stuff? i feel like i should put sealer in it to keep it from happening next time i park it for the winter, hmmm, if i had as much money as questions id be in good shape!
thanks

They use phosphoric acid............

I'd probably use muratic (HCl) from the hardware store

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

great, thanks for the help, now my only question is, how do you make sure its all out? or how careful do you have to be to get it all out? seems like it could wreck some parts like floats, maybe rubber lines? just rinse good with gas and let it dry?

If the plating in the tank is bad you'll get rust again right away if it's not coated. With ethanol in the fuel you will also have water in the fuel. A new tank may not be cheap, but it's really the best way to go. At least we can buy new tanks! I just put one in my '67 Valiant so I feel your pain.

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Joshua

You remove the float and sending unit............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

What is the inside of a tank plated with anyway?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I wonder if a sacrafical zinc anode would work inside a gas tank like they do for steel bridges.............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Gas tanks are galvanized. Zincs wouldn't work because gas is a dielectric.

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Joshua

Galvanized is zinc, and tanks rust from the water vapor that gets in there.....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

i think the tank i saw earlier was made out of zinc joshie, mine is a 67 as well, is it a 1 year only due to body style change in 67 and dual straps post 67? where did you get yours if i may ask? thanks guys