Already mentioned in another thread was my non oiling of the rocker assembly.

The rocker assembly holes were totally plugged and are now ready to distribute oil.

The camshaft bearing, or next of kin, is not allowing oil to come upward. I wired-cleaned passageway to no avail.

I have 40 pounds pressure at fast idle.

I am considering to construct a piping of oil to the rear bolt area from an external source. Perhaps from the oil sending unit.?

Have others done this? If so what worked best? GMac

Doc has done some spray bars on engines. Do a search for" spray bar oiling" or "oil mods" and you should come up with them. There is also an oil mod in the articles section on the main page.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
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You posted previously that one rocker was getting oil, but the others were not. It seems to me that some oil was getting to the rocker shaft. Don't forget that the rocker does not get full oil flow, but metered flow by virtue of the oil passage in the camshaft. When the oil is cold and flow is low it can take a few minutes for oil to fill the rocker shaft. This is why I assemble the rockers to the shaft with a moly grease and also grease or oil the tips of the valve stems.

Did you knock the plugs out of the ends of the rocker shaft and clean it thoroughly? I bought some PVC pipe and pipe caps so I could submerge my rocker shaft in Zep Industrial Purple cleaner. All this from Home Depot and only home Depot has Zep Industrial products. Castrol Super Clean should also work, but I don't think it's as strong as the Zep purple cleaner.

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Joshua

Frank, I did the search and noted that both you and Joshua were into reply and suggestions.

Joshua, you are causing me to think. It hurts. LOL

I did not clean the interior by knocking out the end plugs, I was able to put the wire through it. it
was not **cached excepting somewhat on side walls.
Zep will hear from me and thanks.

I was earlier thinking of doing the conversion.

**Now, instead it’s Zep,etc, LOL GMac

One more thing. If you knock the plugs out of the rocker shaft you'll need new ones to put back in. Find the oldest auto parts store in town, most chain stores won't be able to help, and they should have the little core plugs you need in pull out drawers. I have an oil galley brush that fits the rocker shaft. Between the Zep Industrial Purple and the brush the rocker shaft came out very clean. You can also soak the rockers and other parts in the Zep and get all the grease and oil off them.

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Joshua

I forgot to mention one thing. Since reassembled while running I pulled the rear rocker bolt out. No oil coming up. !!

As Joshua mentioned I do recall the inner fender panel getting splotched up with oil drops when engine was idling for valve adjustment.

I have since put on a reground valve 61 head.

At that time (old head & plugged rockers) It appeared to be coming from the front two rocker arms as they had a light coat of oil.

I reckon Zep won't help at this point. I will do it later however.

Maybe I am missing something, like as in a clue? GMac

May-be the oil passage is plugged at the head gasket.
Did you pull the lower rear head bolt and fish the wire all the way down to the cam?
DD

New cam bearings?

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The wire went down bolthole shaft and it then moved into the Galley hole. Went into galley hole perhaps as much as 1.5 in. Several trys achieved similar depth.

OK, DOC, Now that I have your ear..
Here is what I would like to do, I would like to "T" into the galley gauge area near oil filter. I would run a small line through valve cover then into the same bolt cavity and introduce the piped in oil. Restricted in the amount of oil so I don't take needed pressure off the rest of the system yet enough to travel up to 12 rockers.

Example of how I figured maybe I could do this,.. I would tap into the rear plug in the rocker shaft, or perhaps the small eyelid washer that surrounds the bolt. I would jet the orifice down in size so as to keep pressure in the rest of the system.

My reasoning: Running the vehicle for a while with cleansing agent added to my fresh oil change. I am not yet ready to say cam bearing. Truck sat 10 years and it, and maybe that the poor thing just needs some help. LOL

I am being somewhat optimistic but I can appreciate the plugged galley breaking loose under running conditions. I may have to put some sludge eating down bolt hole a couple times between highway runs to my office.

I can do the hook up yet comments from others may well change my approach. May even stop me.!! LOL

Doc, I badly need an opinion from someone who has done similar tubing and tapping and understands the need for remainder of system to be oiled properly. I have been waiting for your online to this end before even starting.

I realize that the spray bar was for roller rockers and that spray bar is not correct in my case, but, by tapping into the same rocker oiling idea the factory had intended, fresh oil, additives, and the "sub cam bearing pressure" may eventually make it flow again.

I want to run it yet, not fry my rocker assembly.

Yes, also, different hook up suggestions? What'cha think?

Gmac

A .062 hole (1/16) is about right... you can go a little smaller on mechanical lifter set-ups. I solder shut the feed line then drill the proper size hole to meter the oil flow.

As we talked... you can drill and tap a hole right into the cylinder head's rear head bolt thru hole. Suppling oil to that bolt hole will feed the rocker assembly and allows you to remove the valve cover without disconnecting the feed line.

Another way to route the hardline is to cut a slot into the valve cover gasket surface and then epoxy in the hard line to fill the slot.

Getting a hard line into the end of the shaft is hard seeing there is next to no clearance between the end of the rocker shaft and the rear of the valve cover.
DD

If you're as cheap as I am and careful when tapping out the plugs, simply flaring their flanges a bit by pressing'em out with an appropriately sized & tapered socket'll render'em quite re-usable.

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Very helpful. I will be keeping this for immediate referance. Thanks GMac

I am not cheap,.. Just harmed. LOL I like the info. Thanks.

Sorry, I missed the part where you said "New" cam bearings.?
The answer is no.

I read it too blurry and thought (assumed) you were saying "spun" bearing.

Doggon that word assume. My bad. GMac


Orifice for an oiler
Hi Doc,!! and thanks to all others who contributed. I am the "Leaning Tower" author as well as how I am presently signed in. I had a sign in "memory" problem some time back, so I decided to adopt a new sign in. LOL
I wanted to let readers know that I used the bolt idea. I tapped the head bolt top with a brass fitting that allowed the copper tubing to be screwed in. I drilled the inner of bolt a short distance downward the suggested diameter.
I then, with oil approved rubber line and brass fittings, tapped into side galley next to oil filter.
The oil approved rubber line intended to absorb shock movement while running.
I have put on 3000 miles since. This fix is just what I wanted. It saved me time and money. No problems at all.

Thanks all, Leaning Tower. aka gl/6 LOL