Is there anyway to change the oil pan gasket without pulling the engine?

Not on most cars. One kind of rig do you have?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

what sort of vehicle u have is key to ur question.
in my A108 van, there is no trouble dropping the oil pan with the engine in place.
i just did it!


now if i could only get it rite!

D~~~!

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68 A108
73 Harley Servicar
71 BMW R75/5
48 Indian Chief
2003 Ford Ranger XLT extra cab
1997 Geo tracker(Suzuki Sidekick)

I would think the K member keeps most if not all the cars from being possible while the engine is still in. Is that correct?

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

I have a 1976 Plymouth Volare with a 225.

You CAN change that gasket with the engine in the car, just loosen the bolts on the mounts, and jack the engine up as far as it will go.

You might have to turn the crank back and forth to get clearance to get the pan out.

I don't reccomend doing it this way, but it is possible.

IF you do this, post pics of your hands

Rust collector,

What is the downside of doing the gasket how you described?

well, there is not a lot of room to work in, so it is a pita to get to some bolts, clean the surfaces, and to try to get the gasket to stay where you want it while you hold the pan in one hand, and rotate the crank with the other.

If you have to, you have to, but it is not that much work to lift the engine out of the car, really.

I've replaced the pan gasket with the engine in & out of the car several times, and pulling the engine is less of a hassle especially if you don't have a lift.

Everyone, thanks for the help

I changed my pan gasket too. No car lift or pit, just lying on the floor. You can do it, but it is not fun.

The bolts near the K-member were very tricky to install. Lots of patience is needed, and a long wrench.

Installing the front rubber seal may be difficult, if you don't remove the timing cover. I used super glue to attach the rubber to the timing cover. Use silicone sealer in areas between the cork and rubber parts.

Didn't need to turn the crankshaft, maybe it happened to be in right direction. A Little force were needed when putting the pan back between the engine and the crossmember.

Hope this encourages. If you haven't already changed the gasket.

I took some pics of the pan, but forgot the hands...

On my 60's A-body, I had to disconnect the steering center link to get clearance.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

I pulled the engine and now am trying to put engine back in and the notches on the fly whrrl shaft will not line up with the trans. Any tricks to get it in the rest of the way? Only got an inch to go. HELP

If this is an automatic the torque converter must go into the transmission before the engine is bolted up. Then you bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. You'll also need to replace the front pump seal while the torque converter is out.

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Joshua

So you are saying I have to take the torque converter off the end of the engine and attach it to the transmission, then bolt the converter to the end of the engine? I left it attached to the engine.