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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:25 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Hey all,
I need some help with diagnosing why my engine won't start. I got the car with a broken Holley 1920 carburetor, so I got a remanufactured Holley 1920, and it ran poorly for a few weeks, (had to give it gas when coming to a stop or at idle in gear), until it finally quit and wouldn't start. So I got a NOS Carter BBS, and it's started a couple of times, but died after warming up. Now won't start at all. Maybe not the carburetor? Ignition system? I'm afraid I'm too inexperienced to diagnose this, and I could really use some help in person from some one. I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Thomas

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 11:12 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:59 pm
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Location: Indy
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I am too far away to show up to help.The first thing to do is see if the car will start with carb cleaner.If it does it is a fuel problem.Report back on results.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 7:05 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:10 am
Posts: 94
Location: central ga
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if you look down into the carb and work the throttle by hand do you see a squirt of gas?when you took the old carbs off did you look in the fuel bowl and see if there was some debris in them?maybe your fuel lines have trash in them.my dad had a 64 ford truck that had a very small crimp in a metal fuelline.once in a while a little debris would block the line and the truck would die(usually when i was driving :evil: ).after you sat a few minutes it would start up when the trash had drained back into the tank.only to stop at some random time later.we ended up removing the tank and cleaning it out.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:47 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
if you look down into the carb and work the throttle by hand do you see a squirt of gas?when you took the old carbs off did you look in the fuel bowl and see if there was some debris in them?maybe your fuel lines have trash in them.my dad had a 64 ford truck that had a very small crimp in a metal fuelline.once in a while a little debris would block the line and the truck would die(usually when i was driving :evil: ).after you sat a few minutes it would start up when the trash had drained back into the tank.only to stop at some random time later.we ended up removing the tank and cleaning it out.
Yes, the gas squirts into the carburetor. And there hasn't been any debris in the bowl, (I've had it apart several times adjusting the float and rebuilding it).

I'm asking for some help, and I realize that your time isn't free, so I am willing to pay you for your time to come and help me figure out what the problem with my engine is. I don't imagine it would take more than an hour or two? Plus, it would be nice to meet with some local folks who share interest with MoPar. I am eager to learn! Please let me know.
Thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:01 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Posts: 488
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Does it cranck over but won't fire?

Clicking when you turn the key?

No sounds at all?

Could be a lot of things from a dead battery to condenser to ballast resistor. Process of elimination time


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:21 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
Could be a lot of things from a dead battery to condenser to ballast resistor. Process of elimination time
Sorry, I guess I haven't been clear that this is not my starting point in attempting to address the problem. If you look at this thread it will give more background.

The battery is good, the engine turns over fine, and about one in ten revolutions of cranking she sounds like she wants to fire, but doesn't. I just got a ballast resistor, and this weekend will inspect my ignition system, but I have to admit that I feel like the electrical components of an engine are my weakest points. I've taken the spark plugs out after trying to start, and they don't seem fouled. I don't want to have this simply done for me, but I feel like I would learn better with some hands-on help. Thanks!
Thomas

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:02 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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So after all the cranking the plugs aren't fouled?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 2:45 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
So after all the cranking the plugs aren't fouled?
Didn't seem to be; they had a brownish haze around the insulation, the electrodes were pretty clean and dry. Although #6 had a bit of black soot.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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I'm totally amazed that with all our members in Portland and vicinity, nobody's yet stepped up to say "Sure, when and where shall we get together?".

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I'm trying to figure out a time to get down to Portland. I'm working night shifts so it's tough to schedule.

Thomas,

Can you give me a call? I should be able to drop by in the early to mid afternoon tomorrow if you'll be around.

Joshua
three-six-oh-686-8225 or five-oh-three-380-6044.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:44 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:10 am
Posts: 94
Location: central ga
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btw cool car,i always liked that shade of yellow.i almost bought a 65 valiant convertible that color.but the wife blew a gasket. :roll:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 11:39 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Joshua,
Thanks for stopping by to help me out. I had a minute to inspect the distributor you dropped off, and the points gap seemed to be around 0.015" or 0.016". I thought it should be 0.020"; is that right?

urr-lord: thanks; I wasn't too keen on the color at first, but either I'm just used to it now, or it's grown on me. The license plate it came with read "TWD BRD"(tweety bird?)...I ditched that.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:39 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Could be .020", but I'd have to look it up.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 4:13 pm 
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Point gap spec is 0.017" to 0.023".

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 Post subject: point gap
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:43 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
Point gap spec is 0.017" to 0.023".
If I understand correctly, adjusting the point gap will necessarily affect the dwell? If so, then getting the points somewhere between 0.017" and 0.023" (or "close enough") is not good enough; rather (I'm guessing) there is a specific gap--some place between 0.017" and 0.023"--that is optimal for a given engine?

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