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Headwork...I want 14's...
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Author:  CrAlt [ Sun May 19, 2002 12:31 am ]
Post subject:  Headwork...I want 14's...
Let me start off by saying im looking for 14's on a N/A car with out EFI. I know this isnt going to be easy. The car is low 16's high 15's from the best i can tell. Gtech says it 15.89 and its just about matched (many times) with a friends car that we know runs 15.7.
Here is what I got. 72/3 Scamp 3000lbs with 8.75 3.23(I know I need more) SG. The cobra GTH's hook good. No problem there

904 with low gear set manual VB 5clutch front drum. Houghes 27-30(3K stall, stalls 2200ish on this motor). Seems to be good. All knew front end, disc brakes, ect..Car is set

Now my motor.
Its A stock bottem end fresh 30over block. Im going to rock this till something brakes. It seems to be dealing with my beatings 5500 shifts and all. I want to make a windage tray if I can find some pics or buy one of them J&Mwhatever ones if they start making them again.

390holley, cliford intake, split headers.

**The head. I know this is where I need to put the work in to, and the money. I wish I could just send this to someone who knows what they are doing along with a check and get back a kickass head but im on the wrong coast (CT) it seems. So I will have to do it my self.

Ive already ported it and had it milled 60 plus what ever it was milled when it was 1st rebuilt. I got the MP O/S valves and im going to have these put on.
Now I need to know what the ports have to look like. Are there any good photo's out there? Cutting one side more then the other? Just rip it out and hope I dont hit water or what? I opened up the ports alot and took out alot on the short side. You can just about see the tops of the valveheads from the ports. I smoothed out the bowls and blended in the valve guides. I also took out alot of meat around the bowls to make the more round. What more should I do to this head?

I have the 448" Isky cam "strait up". I degreed the thing and the $19.99 pepboys timing set was dead on. Should I advance the thing or get a new cam?

Im still playing with the timming curve on the dist and I have a MSD with 8mm wires. Do I want all my advance in soon/off idle or should I keep it comming on smooth? Right now I got about 14 at idle and it comes in smooth at about 2500. The motor has good all around power but she pulls hard at about 3500. I have to becafull with the timming because I cant here it ping. Its like a switch comming on, you watch the tach creep up to 3500 then it charges over to 5500.

So, lets hear it. Any input, "You are doing this wrong", "Do this", etc... is welcome.

cralt@optonline.net
Author:  Doctor Dodge (Doug Dutra) [ Sun May 19, 2002 9:31 am ]
Post subject:  Re: I want 14's...Headwork & ???
Quote:
: Let me start off by saying im looking for 14's
: on a N/A car with out EFI. I know this isnt
: going to be easy. The car is low 16's high
: 15's from the best i can tell. Gtech says it
: 15.89 and its just about matched (many
: times) with a friends car that we know runs
: 15.7.
: Here is what I got. 72/3 Scamp 3000lbs with
: 8.75 3.23(I know I need more) SG. The cobra
: GTH's hook good. No problem there


You are well on your way and have you next step well planned, you need o/s valves in the head & some fussy headwork. (flowbench would be the way to do the final head tweek) Maybe ship the head off to J&M and let them do the o/s valve install.

A littly more cam and a little more rear gear (4.30 or 4.56)and that should do it. You may need a little more carb. cfm but wait untill the head is redone and start thinking about places to get more weight out of the car. Pull-up the carputs, scrap-out the seam "tar", scrap-off undercoating, pull-out rear window regulators, etc.

As for your advance curve, you need a chassis dyno or the dragstrip at this point, your are at that place where the HP is there, hiding in your parts combo, you just need to "flush it out" with a bunch of trial & error "tweeking"
DD
Author:  CrAlt [ Sun May 19, 2002 4:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: I want 14's...Headwork & ???
Quote:
: You are well on your way and have you next step
: well planned, you need o/s valves in the
: head & some fussy headwork. (flowbench
: would be the way to do the final head tweek)
: Maybe ship the head off to J&M and let them
: do the o/s valve install.
:
: A littly more cam and a little more rear gear
: (4.30 or 4.56)and that should do it. You may
: need a little more carb. cfm but wait untill
: the head is redone and start thinking about
: places to get more weight out of the car.
: Pull-up the carputs, scrap-out the seam
: "tar", scrap-off undercoating,
: pull-out rear window regulators, etc.
:
: As for your advance curve, you need a chassis
: dyno or the dragstrip at this point, your
: are at that place where the HP is there,
: hiding in your parts combo, you just need to
: "flush it out" with a bunch of
: trial & error "tweeking"
: DD

J/M? Where are they out of?

cralt@optonline.net
Author:  CrAlt [ Sun May 19, 2002 6:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Crappy pics of my ports..
<A HREF="http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/003714.html">http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/003714.html</A>
Author:  Devo [ Tue Feb 25, 2003 6:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have had some good experience with ceramic coatings on the piston tops and combustion chambers. This of course stops heat from soaking into the engine parts and keeps it in the combustion chamber where it belongs, thus increasing overall performance including milage. This is typically a high dollar mod for the big boys, which means it is an edge your competition will most likely not have. It will cost in the neighborhood of $350 pluss shipping of the parts. I had mine done about ten years ago by a company in Ohio but I cant remember their name, however, I'm sure an internet search would give many options. Also, this is a mod that can be done on any engine, or when no more goodies can be purchased. Good luck!
Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Feb 25, 2003 7:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
CrAlt, I've been into the 14's with mine. You're on the right track with the head work, I think that's the key to mine running so well. J&M are in Lexington, Nebraska. I think you're out of luck for this year though, as they only take on major jobs before winter and they are booked.

The other key is weight. If I remember right, you did a bunch of lighteneing on that car. My '66 weighs 3200# with me in it and has gone 14:80@90 with a 3.55 gear. I think that probably with the head work, some more cam, and a little more gear you should be where you want to be. :shock:
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