new guy here

I just bought a '67 Dart /6 for my 14 yr old son's first car and high school cruiser.
I want to help him hop up the /6 and any help you can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks

Hank

Hank,

Welcome to the site. This is a very broad question. It would help us to know what sort of performance you are after (1/4 mile time?), budget, plans for other parts of the car, etc... What will you use it for? Street driver, street/strip, autocross??

Best wishes,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou

It's going to be my 14 yr old son's first car and high school cruiser. NO Racing, strickly cruiser (read slow) driving around town and to and from school daily. I don't have a dollar figure my last restoration left me broke. This will be a quick paint job, disc brake upgrade and just make the /6 run and look good for now until we get more $$$ for upgrades.

is the engine only getting a tune-up and bolt on parts or is it going to get a fresh rebuild?

full fresh rebuild

Hank
You can still spend the same amount of money and get better proformance. There is a lot of room for improvement in the head ,cam and exhaust.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Build for engine efficency. Normal rebuild, with fresh bore and stock replacement pistons. Take measurements, and adjust compression ratio, for an honest 9-1. Mild cam, stock 1 bbl manifold and carb, stock exhaust manifold, with freeflowing exhaust. Convert to electronic ignition (stock Mopar or HEI). Good stock type valve job, with back cut stock valves. If desired and in the budget, maybe some pocket porting. The rest is in tuning (carb jetting and ign advance curve). All of this will improve both power and fuel mileage, and will cost very little more then a bone stock rebuild.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

charlie`s plan sounds good and don`t forget to keep the stock oil pump,clean it and reuse it. the best stock cast piston is seal power 244np(summit $11.69us,ea.) in what ever size you bore to clean the cyl.

One question whose paying for the work. The reason I ask got my 73 duster when I was 14 and I have paid for 95% of the parts and I have learned to work hard and save money for a goal. And I take more pride in my duster knowing I built it myself, which my dad has helped me every step of the way, but not with money. So might want to think about that also

and you should try to find a super six setup

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Congratulations to you and your son. I got my '64 when I was 15 and a friend and I got it running. It was a great feeling and it's still a great car.

There's been some great advice here already. These will all provide an enjoyable drive without worrying about him doing burnouts in the front lawn. I would definitely recommend upgrading to discs as soon as possible. A Hellwig sway bar up front would also be a great help to adding stability and safety to your son's ride.

Lot's of great advice to be had on this forum. If you can think of an upgrade, there's probably an article about it.

A Super Six is a nice upgrade, but there's still lots you can do with the good ol' one barrel setup. I'm currently driving on one and it's good for getting the car moving when it's properly tuned.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant

Well Guys

My son John is paying for most of it, Dad (me) is paying for the paint and body supplies and elbow grease to get it look good.

My son John has already earned enough $$$ mowing lawns, building decks, cleaning out brush, hauling trash etc....to buy the front disc brake conversion kit. All my neighbors lawns and yards, decks and garages look great.

I'm thinking seriously of doing the engine all stock with just a rebuild and fresh paint and letting him upgrade it as he earns the $$$

The build I suggested, would only add about $100-$150 over a totaly stock rebuild. That would be the additional head work over a stock valve job, and the milling for compression increase. And the small amount more for a performance cam over a stock cam (and you could even save there, by getting a regrind). It is much more economical to do this during the initial rebuild. Then any other upgrades would mostly external, bolt on items, that can be done anytime.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

mopork,

Do yourself a big favor and research out what Charlie has said in the quote.
I did this and a little more. When I milled the head and block, both were twisted in opposite directions, I also reground the cam for a little taller lift for better mileage and torque. The milling and the cam grinding balanced each other out so I could continue to use the stock push rods. Build the motor as a good foundation for more power later on with bolt-on's and better tuning. Allot of performance can come with a well tuned carb and a distributor recurve. Both are very inexpensive and will be fun projects for you and your son. Later on he can take it the rest of the way. In the mean time you would have a good running engine.

Do not build a stock engine per the book. With the few changes mentioned, the engine will be so much more efficient and you will get much better mileage.

Do a search on "motor builds" using the search function. There are allot of great pictures.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

if the mating surfaces are going to be planed a machine shop charges the same for set up and cut whether it`s .005th or .100th,as for pushrod length there is lots of adjustment so custom rod will not be needed.

Guys

thanks for the help I will take you advice and get the block and heads milled for more compression and efficency

thanks for the help