i have a starter that came off a 95 Dakota or something like that on my 77 Volare. anybody know what the swtichout vehicles are for these smaller starters? also can the solenoid be replaced or repaired without replacing the starter?

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David at the Beach in NC

I ordered a 93 V6 starter for my 72 Duster. You should be fine.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I'm running a starter off a 93 Dakota V6. No worries.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I also installed a starter from a '93 Dakota V6 on my '78 Volare 225. Works fine.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

I'm surprized more slanters didn't know about this. Was talking to ArmyofChuckness today and he knows it now! I though the one on my Duster was bad so I bought another one. Turned out I had a dead battery Didn't have a volt meter at the time

So the spare one is going on the FartDart.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

thanx for the input.

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David at the Beach in NC

The "lightweight" starters, made by Nipondenso, were used on late 80's and newer vehicles domestic Mopars. All the trucks and vans have them. There are two different starters, one for 6 cylinder and one for 8 cylinder. Putting them side by side you'll notice the motor is slightly longer on the 8 cylinder version. Remove the 3 Phillips screws to expose the solenoid contacts.

The weak point in these starters is the solenoid contacts. They can be replaced, as can the plunger. iirc someone on the MML www.moparmailinglist.com posted some mail order sources a couple of years ago, but I lost them in a computer crash. Try posting a request there. You can also try your local starter/alternator/generator rebuilding shops. The contacts and plunger shouldn't cost more than ~$15-20. There are also an insulating sleeve&cap on the motor/solenoid cable and a drain tube in the motor housing. These often deteriorate and should be replaced if they're in poor condition. Be careful with solvents when cleaning the starter. These elastomeric components will swell and fall apart if you get any solvent on them.

If you disassemble the starter, the ball bearings are standard industrial sizes, available from www.mscdirect.com and other industrial suppliers. Use shielded bearings except for the one that's exposed to the outside, by the drive clutch, which should have rubber seals. The originals are all shielded style iirc. The brushes and commutator seem to last forever. There's a snap ring on the drive clutch iirc that is a pita to remove.

Try to use a copper nut for the battery cable terminal. Using steel nuts on the copper posts will cause galvanic corrosion of the nuts, making them difficult to remove without snapping the terminal. At the junkyard just cut the wires and worry about removing the nuts when you have it on your workbench and have the proper tools available.

Ken

This might help.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml