If I get this:

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(1h ... 0999+27742

and two of each of the wheel seals and bearings, and install them, will that replace every soft part in my rear (8-3/8")?

Assuming the ring & pinion are ok, is there anything else that can potentially wear out on me?

The rear is from a junkyard. I know nothing of it's history.

I had bought it when the original ring fell apart, the original rear seized up, the driveshaft spun the nut off the pinion, and the shaft dropped on the highway out of the trans (to the amusement of all aware of what had happened except for me and the towtruck driver who the cop on the scene had made clean tranny fluid off the highway).

I bought and installed it with the intention of rebuilding it later, but never got around to it.

It makes a noise at 35MPH+. I don't want to diagnose it, I just want to replace everything in it, inspect and confirm the condition of the ring and pinion, fill it with oil, and forget about it other than to check fluid level.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Your link has expired.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

sorry...

Part: BK 3353976 "Comments: Include Bearing Kit Plus Ring Gear Bolts /Pinion shims/Carrier Shims;w/ Bearing;8 1/4 & 8 3/8"

what's an 8 3/8? You mean a 9 1/4?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Rug
8 3/8 is a valid rear for 60's Mopars.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

My 1980 D-150 has listed on the build sheet a 8.375" rear end 3.55 gears.
I think they are the same as the 8-1/4". I think Joshie will confirm.

bwhitejr

_________________
'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head

I read an article by Doc that called one rear an 8 1/4. Yet you could swap chunks with the 8 3/4.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Yup My FSM (66) seems to say its like an Early A 8 1/4 that will accept 8 3/4 centers. I would guess that most of the early A NON cut down 8 3/4 are actully 8 3/8.
Just my opnion,
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

The 8.25 a/k/a 8.375 uses threaded adjusters to set the differential case bearing preload and gear backlash. The pinion uses shims to set the depth of engagement. You'll need a special tool to turn the adjusters. To set the backlash you'll need a dial indicator and magnetic base. To torque the pinion nut you'll either need the yoke holding tool or have a means to engage the brakes. To set the dept of engagement you'll need a set-up bearing that's a slip-fit instead of press-fit.

What does the noise sound like? Does it change when accelerating vs decelerating (using engine braking)?

If the noise changes between accelerating and decelerating, the ring and pinion are worn and need to be replaced. If the noise remains constant, its likely a bearing failure. If the noise occurs only while turning, the problem is in the differential gears (or clutches if its a limited slip).

The rebuild kit should contain 2- differential case bearings, 1- pinion front bearing, 1- pinion rear bearing, assorted pinion shims, collapsable spacer collar, marking compound, pinion seal, and cover gasket or RTV. The axle bearings and seals have to be purchased separately.

I'm near exit 155P and have the tools, if you need help or want me to set it up for you.

Ken

That sounds alot more involved than what I thought would be a simple bolt-together procedure. (Admittedly, the only thing's I've ever done with rears is reseal the cover, change gear oil, and pull axles to do bearings/seals--oh...and do the autopsy on the old rear.)

The noise is pretty constant: kicks in/goes away at about 35MPH. Left, right , acceleration, deceleration (other than crossing that speed threshold) have no noticible effect. The frequency may go up with vehicle speed over 55 MPH--could be my imagination, though.

I am pretty sure it is a bearing (the original rear had bad gears and the noise changed under various conditions, and thudded hard shifting from forward to reverse, or dropping into L2 on downgrades). This rear does make a little noise shifting into reverse, though.
I may take you up on that. Thanks.

I'm not sure when I'd be ready to move foreward on it.

I rarely drive the van. Thinking it was simple, I figured I would do homework, get the parts as the money is available, put it on jackstands and plug away at it during my downtime.

If I have to treat it as a productive 'event,' I should probably make sure I have enough cash for a ring and pinion (just in case--and find a place that stocks it) and for labor.

I'd be glad to do all the monkey work and pay for your time to adjust stuff.

Thanks again.

I buy my parts from Reider Racing. http://www.reiderracing.com/ Limited slip differentials are often available used, and can also be found in junkyards. 8.25's are common in Dakota and Durango trucks.

Ken

I've got no reason for a LSD (it''s a one barrel and heavy as hell. It only ever spins tires on ice).

I will look into picking up a late model rear to harvest the gearset from.

Thanks.

If the problem is a bad bearing, the gears may still be good. Replace just the bearings if that's the case. What gear ratio are you looking for? I might have a set after I do some axle work. Be forewarned that installing used gears will likely make noise (louder and more obnoxious than the bearing noise).

Ken

If I'm reusing the gears, can't I leave the differential together, pull the axles, put a micrometer on the pinion shims and make a same-sized pile of shims to replace them, replace the bearings & seals, and put it back together without having to adjust anything?

Am I missing something?
I think when I put this rear on, I just put a jack and block of wood below a flat part of the yoke so it couldn't rotate.

I am pretty confident it is bearing noise.

The differential bearings are preloaded by the threaded adjusters. You can loosen the right side adjuster to remove the differential and retorque it during reassembly. The pinion slides out after removing the nut. The pinion bearing cups have to be pulled or driven out of the bores. The new ones should be pressed (I improvise using a threaded rod and some steel discs I made on my lathe). Depending on how badly worn the large pinion bearing is, the pinion may displace enough to require removal of .001-0.002" of shims. Similarly, the backlash may need to be increased. The gear teeth have a wear pattern that ends with a step in the surface. With the new bearings, the contact pattern must not be allowed to touch the step. If it does, the full load will be transmitted through the step instead of across the tooth face, which will result in noise and broken gear teeth. Before installing the cover and adding oil, always check the tooth contact pattern using marking compound.

You should closely examine the bearing cup and rollers using magnification to determine how badly worn they are.

Ken