Hi, getting a slant six, '83 from a truck, .030 over, head shaved .100, pistons 37 thou in the hole, the engine builder oversize valves, stock cam (for now), headers, 2-bbl. How many HP? Have we broken 200?

What about with the "Hot rodding" MP cam mentioned in the /6 racing manual (number escapes me, but "good all-around high performance cam")?

What can I expect in a stripper '73 Dart Sport (no PB, PS, AC, back seat, etc.) with an A833OD and mid-3 rear gears? Fun yes, I know. But any idea on 1/4 mile numbers, etc.?

Thanks so much!
~Scott

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62 Plymouth Valiant "Alvin" 170
74 Dodge D100 "Joe" soon to be 225
74 Roadrunner "Sarge" 360

If there is no port work in the head about 170 to 180 HP. You will want some cam and port work to really take full advantage of whats been done.
I would say 16.XX in the quarter with your stripped car.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

No idea but the question I have is, You say 83 motor so is it a hyd lifter setup still?

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Good question about the lifters... how will I know from the outside or under the valve cover? I'll ask the guy who built it, that'll help too, but what do I look for?

I'm happy in the 16s. That's a decent enough kick in the pants for me for now.

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62 Plymouth Valiant "Alvin" 170
74 Dodge D100 "Joe" soon to be 225
74 Roadrunner "Sarge" 360

If you have a pre 81 valve cover compare the two as the cover size/shape changed with the hydro motor.Under the cover adjusters on the rockers for mech motor,no adjusters on hydro.It's my understanding that to take 100th off a hydro requires new pushrods being built to compensate re,shorter length.Ask bunches of questions about how it was built,I suspect it's been converted to mech cam/lifters/rocker assembly/pushrods allready.I'm sure you know that you'll need your pan/oilpump pickup/dipstick for what ever car motor will reside in.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

It sounds like you purchased an "already built" performance engine based on what the previous owner told you... that means that you don't know what you have... (been there, done that...)

Take some measurments... keep asking questions, figure-out what is really in this engine.

At a minimum, you need to figure-out what the true static compression ratio is and figure-out what cam you have.
If I had this engine, I would pull the front cover and degree-in the cam... and it is likely I would not like what I find, and would end-up changing cams to match the compression ratio and my intended use.
If it is a hydraulic lifter set-up., I would swap it over to a "known" mechanical cam and lifters
DD

Thanks all - turns out the 833OD tranny is out of an 83 truck but the engine is a pre-'75 block, post-'77 head. Bought from a very cool forum member. I know that's no guarantee, but he's way into this, and he gave me a deal and a half so I'm not worried. More than worth it for the parts alone.

I do have a NOS Mopar Performance cam on the way. Now I just need to figure out how to mount the 6 in a V8 K-framed Dart Sport. Pulling 2 cars' front ends apart & changing K frames is too much for me to handle given my current tools, time & talents. An engine swap and the whole "long tailshaft" issues will keep me plenty busy.

Thanks!

~Scott

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62 Plymouth Valiant "Alvin" 170
74 Dodge D100 "Joe" soon to be 225
74 Roadrunner "Sarge" 360

The "long tailshaft" issue is covered, to a point in the 4 speed article on the home page. However I may soon be in the same boat so I was thinking, what about a new tailhousing from passon performance? I'm guessing you'd need a new shorter shaft as well... has this already been chewed to death?

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72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!

I think it would be way easier to just fabricate the piece to mount the shifter foreward. chunk of metal with six holes. It doesn't have to be perfect, just stick up in the right spot for your hump, and give the rods enough adjustment to work well. Not rocket science.

good luck

rdr

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madam im adam