I have '63 Dart vert. I'm thinking 2700 to 3000 lbs. I want to mostly have fun driving on the street. Not a race car.

I would like the equivalent of 15 sec. quarters and 20mpg.

My thoughts are bored over .030, .100 off the head, large stainless valves, port & polish etc..

Clifford shorty headers, 2 1/4 duals to the muffler then single 2 1/4 single out the back.

Heres the fun part. Dual 32/36 webers on a dual offy manifold.

I have two cams to pick from one is Comp 264 the other is an Erson 271.

904 pushbutton trans. 3.21:1 8 1/4" rear. Disc brake / BB conversion.

Can I get any comments on this recipe?

thx, Ray

I posted some specifics in my previous post. Any comments? thx, Ray

Let's split this out rather than stick it in somebody else's thread!
Ought to work for 15's or 16's. The only concern would be the economy. But then you might be able to keep your foot out of it! Make sure to CC the head before you start cutting on it. You may want to go to a newer head for the build. Something in the early 70's will get you the improved combustion chamber. Stainless is OK for high heat situations, but will tear up the guides quicker. Don't forget the Smith Brother's push rods of appropriate length for what you cut off.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

A good general plan... what is your target max. RPM? (redline)
The key to sucess is to measure and set the static compression around 9 to 1 the select the right cam for the desired power band.
I would look into using a RDP type cam (reverse dual pattern) with a little more intake event time.

Head porting is the next area were attention to detail really pays-off.
Also review the SL6 block prep article for some tips. Pay close attention to oil system improvements.
And a good torque converter will really help.
DD

Did you snag one of the dual two barrel intakes?

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thank you Doug. My max rpm sghould not go qver 5200 to 5500. Can you help me with a better cam select. The Erson 271 cam I have came from a guy who had followed one of your recipes from a Hot Rod Mag. article.

I also have the head he had builtr at that time. It is a 1981 head I forget the casting number at the moment. He had stainless Egge oversized valvesput in and reportedly ported it. I will have to check al of that out before I install it.

I suppose I should start with the block prep and go from there.

I am not needing anything too radical for performance. I just want to have fun on the highway and get decent fuel mileage. Not a racer. But it would be nice to raise and eyebrow here and there.

I would like any more info I can get on choosing a cam and how to mate that to the proper torque converter.

Handling, acceleration, and economy. Yes, I want a miracle. Why not, they do it on modern cars.

thx, Ray

Ceej, Thankyou for straightening out my thread. I meant no offence. I was actually trying to help get the 300 Hp one on track. And pick up the info that had not been answered on my previous inquiries.

No I did not know of the two bbl dual intakes unless you are speaking of Proline ones that used to be available.

I have a standard Offy dual single bbl manifold. It has the larger platforms to accept a two bbl if machined for it.

My plan is to machine it to fit the top half of the mikuni to weber adapters sold by Redline; then bolt my progressive two bbl webers on.

It will be like having a four bbl on a split level manifold, except that the venturiis will be smaller and hopefully more adaptable to Slant Six breathing characteristics.

Any suggestions based on experience are welcome.

Thank you for your interest. Ray

OK, based on your 5500 redline target, the Erson RV15 on the intake lobe combined with the old Mopar 244 exhaust profile is a great choice.
I have used a bunch of these cams in street engines, combined with 9 to 1 static compression... and it works well.
Follow this link for the "numbers".
http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/er ... am60bd.jpg

I would not get it with 4 degrees advance ground in, this combo works better when installed "straight up".

I think Ceej used this cam on his stroker engine but later, went to more cam... may-be he still has his used one.
DD

I still have it in the engine. I find that it's pretty much done by 5k. (This is on a Stroker build, so it doesn't need to spin faster anyway.)
It is very light on lift, so my volumetric efficiency isn't where I'd like it. On a stock stroke, this will be less of an issue, but net lift is probably in the .42x range with the loose valve lash that my particular application needs to idle decently. I may try to "Split the difference" and lash a bit tighter. The valves and port work I've done should flow pretty well, but not until I get somewhere in the .47x" lift range.

I've been collecting turbos, so may keep this cam in there. It would be better to have more lift for that, but it's at least borderline for a forced induction overlap.

I picked up an Erson 280 narrowed up a bit, but that may wait for a higher RPM build. Like my 210 low deck.
If I decide to let the cam go, I'll let you know. The 270 should breath a bit better with a smaller valve head. With the dual webbers, I'd want a bit more duration and lift than the RV offers. Just my take on it. Doc's the guru though. Most of the crowd east of the Mississippi run much more cam street/strip than we do out here.

There is a gentleman in Salem running dual Webbers. He may chime in here and let you know what he did. I believe he's running the Oz intake that Proline was selling.
If I remember right, DusterIdiot helped to tune that setup. It was "challenging" from the description I got, but it sure is a neat build!

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing