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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:36 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:36 pm
Posts: 2
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Hello knowledgeable Mopar guys. I'm having a little trouble with the 'ol 225 daily driver and would like any input as to what might be the cause before I have to rip her apart. A couple days ago I drove down the street, parked for an hour and drove back and she ran perfectly the whole time, as she has been for the past 5 months. An hour later I went back out and started her up and she was running very rough, as if she wasn't hitting on all cylinders, i.e., loud, and unbalanced.
This is what was done to the vehicle 5 months ago: New wiring harness, new electronic ignition, new volt. regulator, valve job, new carb, new manifold gasket, new radiator, new alternator, new battery, fluids/filters change, new motor mounts, new spark plugs, all new wires and cables inside and out of doghouse(its an A100), new ignition switch, and of course, new stereo.
This is what I have done and checked to troubleshoot: New coil(it was the only thing I didn't replace with the new E.I.), new plug wires, checked all connections both mechanical and electrical(good ground, good power before you ask), plugs are not fouled, I've got arcing from each distributor "hook-up" to each appropriate plug wire, no oil in the coolant, no smoke, no trouble starting, no oils/fluids from the exhaust, and all the new wiring is in new condition. The only helpful thing I have found is that I can unplug all the plug wires without any noticeable change in the motor except #1 and #2, i.e., it looks like those are the only two working... but why?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again! -Levi


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
If you have one available, try a different ECU.
(electronic control unit)
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Make sure the ECU is well grounded. I ran an extra ground wire to it. to be sure and used stainless steel bolt head screws.

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:26 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:36 pm
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Thanks, I finally got around to checking the compression and found that the #6 cylinder's exhaust valve is stuck open. I am guessing that its from perhaps a little too much hi-temp gasket sealant when I replaced the manifold gasket recently. There doesn't appear to be any damage to any of the components, the pushrod just fell to the side. Know of any tricks for freeing up stuck valves... without removing the head? Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:02 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:19 pm
Posts: 26
Location: riverside, CA
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Quote:
Thanks, I finally got around to checking the compression and found that the #6 cylinder's exhaust valve is stuck open. I am guessing that its from perhaps a little too much hi-temp gasket sealant when I replaced the manifold gasket recently. There doesn't appear to be any damage to any of the components, the pushrod just fell to the side. Know of any tricks for freeing up stuck valves... without removing the head? Thanks again!


try rislone. works for me. If not, dump a quart of tranny fluid into the crankcase, in place of a quart of oil. works for my truck that gets a sticky lifter every once in a while....

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 370
Location: NEW MARTINSVILLE,WV
Car Model:
marvel mystery oil works well also

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Nothing beats a slant six
1987 D150


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 5:45 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
He said a stuck valve, not a lifter.

You could try using a block of wood, 2x2 hardwood might work well. Place it against the valve stem and tap it with a hammer. You could also use a plastic or rubber mallet. You can also feed a length of nylon rope into the cylinder then turn the engine until the piston comes up to squeeze the rope against the valve. Turn by hand only, don't use the starter or you could bend or break something. Soak the guide and stem well with oil and keep working it until it moves freely without sticking. If that doesn't work it's pull the head time.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:56 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 830
Location: joyce wa
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Try the search function for stuck valves there should be several threads on the subject. I went through this myself awhile back with 6 stuck exh valves on a slant that had been setting for a few years.I was told back then that the slant is not an interferance motor so I never worried about the valves hitting the pistons(which was my first concern).I tackeled mine with coupeus amounts of PB Blaster around the valve and used a prybar to get the valves to snap back closed. Also poured Marvel down the plug holes,reinstalled the plugs and spun the motor trying to force some oil to underside of valve stem/guide area.Took a few days of tapping/spraying/prying but eventualy got everthing back to normal,did have to replace 4 bent pushrods but it's running fine now.Good luck

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:38 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:27 pm
Posts: 370
Location: NEW MARTINSVILLE,WV
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I used the marvel mystery oil to loosen the valves in a flathead chrysler motor that was in a boat once that's why I suggested it it worked great

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Nothing beats a slant six
1987 D150


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