This is not a Slant Six question, but I figuerd there may be someone here who could help out. My 94 Dakota is a brake-eating machine. Maybe 10,000 miles before the rotors are warped and the pads are shot. So here are the questions I have.

1) If I were to buy a new set of rotors,

and cross drill and slot them, would

that help with the longevity of the

rotors? That is supposed to help with

dissipating heat, so it should keep the

rotors from warping as easily.

2) Is this advisable with stock NAPA or

Mopar rotors? Are there any problems

that would arise with machining stock

rotors?

3) Does anyone know of a brand of brake

pad that has little or no metallic

content? I think this is half the

problem. The pads are barely worn by

the time the rotors are smoked due

to the high metallic content.

4) Does anyone offer a upgarde kit for

Dakotas? I am lowereing the truck in

July, and adding 18" wheels, so I'll

have room for bigger rotors.

If anyone can offer any ideas, it would be greatly appreciated.By the way, the /6 to 727 adapter has finally arived. Two more weeks of school and I can start working on the aluminum version. Thanks again.

madmax6995@hotmail.com

Nope. Cross drilling is not to improve cooling, and by removing material, you diminish the ability of the brake to absorb heat. Worse, the cross drilling weakens the rotor, increasing your odds of failure. It would solve one problem, though - it might make your pads finally wear out before the rotors!

Slotting may be of some advantage. I know several pro racers use them on endurace race cars. I doubt the advantage will be huge, though.

There are several ways out of this. One is a more massive (either thicker or larger diameter) rotor which would absorb more heat. Another is to provide cold air from a duct to cool the rotors. And make sure you're not doing something that would cause the brakes to heat up excessively. Check to be sure they're not dragging, and if you tow a trailer, look into one with its own brakes. How much do you typically haul?
:
: 2) Is this advisable with stock NAPA or
: Mopar rotors?

Slotting will work, not cross drilling.
:
: 3) Does anyone know of a brand of brake
: pad that has little or no metallic
: content? I think this is half the
: problem. The pads are barely worn by
: the time the rotors are smoked due
: to the high metallic content.

A lot of the cheap organic pads are like this, but they also diminish brake capacity and wear out faster.
:
: 4) Does anyone offer a upgarde kit for
: Dakotas? I am lowereing the truck in
: July, and adding 18" wheels, so I'll
: have room for bigger rotors.

I don't know, but Baer might have what you're looking for.

**************************************************
Max.....have you looked into the possibility of a problem in the master cylinder or proportioning valve, yet? Is it possible that your brakes are dragging a bit and causing the excessive heat? Maybe one of the little valves built into the master cylinder is keeping too much pressure in the front system and causing excessive drag.

Roger

GTS225@aol.com

madmax6995@hotmail.com

Hmmmmm......good question. I seem to recall being told that a front disc system is supposed maintain 15psi in the lines, but I can't say that that's truth. I might suggest you get the front tires off the ground and see how much effort it takes to turn them by hand. It shouldn't take a lot, and you should hear the front pads dragging ever so lightly. If you have to really muscle them around, I'd say look at the master cyl.

Roger

GTS225@aol.com

I had the same problem with the rotors on my wifes Dodge intrepid. I learned it is quite common with newer cars and lighter rotors. I was told that you should not drill factory rotors. There are lots of companies out there that make cross drilled rotors, I bought a set from Autospecilty. They went on fine but I don't have enough miles on the car yet to judge the life span, 5,000 or so. They did improve braking some though.

Good Luck
Steve

You have something else going on there besides just wearing out parts. I have 240,000 miles on my Dakota and I just started on my third set of rotors and pads typically get 60K ish miles out of the pads. The last set of rotors did warp sligthly but that was on the second set of pads and the rotors were worn beyond the .880" min thickness.

I like Raybestos PG series pads (mainly because they produce less black residue on the wheels) and use them when I can get them. I currently have Wagner pads and rotors on the Dakota and have no complaints.

Area's I would look at;
1. Are the front lug nuts torqued. Using an impact gun or uneven torquing of lug nuts can cause rotors to warp.
2. Is there anything that is causing excessive drag; frozen caliper, frozen master cylinder, driving with two feet (people that drive automatics with two feet have a tendancy to rest there left foot on the brake pedal causing constant braking action).
3. problem with proportioning valve or rear anti-lock causing all braking to be handled by front wheels.
4. You never mentioned your driving habits. Is all your driving stop and go city driving? Maybe your driving habits are just such that you will wear out parts faster.

Dave Clement

Hot-Rod 6
dave.clement@motorola.com