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 Post subject: Slant Six Street Build?
PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:08 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:57 am
Posts: 150
Location: Edge of the World
Car Model:
I currently own a 1973 225-1/904 Dart Custom 4-door with a 2.76:1 gear. It runs along at highway speeds just fine, but if a sudden burst of speed is requested, the engine's response is like "Are you talkin' to me?"

The conversion to BBP and disks is underway. Rather than go the V-8 route, I would like to build a /6 to replace the 85k lump in the car. I'd like to be able to run 89 octane gasoline in the car. The goal is to retain the docile nature of the car, but have a little more reserve power at highway speeds. (Something that will give the Lil Beemers and Benz boys something to think about.)

Here's what I'm considering:
Bore +.040 Use the 2.2 Turbo piston
Use 198 rods.
Comp 268 cam
Mill head .050 mild port clean-up
SL-6 Hurricane intake *
390 cfm Holley 4160 *
Dutra Duals y'd to a single 2¼" exhaust^.

*On hand
^Installed

1. What should I look for in a core to rebuild? Cast crank? What to avoid?
2. What kind of compression ratio should I expect with the turbo piston, 198 rods, & milled head? What if I only milled the head .030?
3. Does anyone make a true roller timing chain for the /6?
4. What kind of power should I expect to see out of this combination? Where is the power band?
5. I'm aware I could probably get a more tractable package out of a Turbo/FI build. Maybe next time. I'm going with the carburetor setup, because I already have it.
6. Once built, how do I go about finding someone with an engine dyno so verify what this thing will do and fine tune it a little?
7. If this goal is unrealistic, feel free to bust my bubble. This is just one idea of many and I ain't married to it.

If you need more info, the only dumb questions are the ones that you have that you don't ask.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 6:11 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
Car Model:
I think your goal is realistic. You may want to consider the K1/Wiseco rod/piston set-up as in the long run you get a MUCH better combo. In fact Mark has a set of pistons in the for sale section.
Im not a big Comp fan so I would go with the ERSON 280/270 RDP and Buy all my springs etc from them as well (group buy is still on).
Any Block is fine, any Head is fine though for a proformance build I would choose a head after 66. Look in the Articles Section on the home page as to pros and cons along with IDing.
There are a number of true roller chains available. Rollmaster is the best known.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:20 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16844
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
For what I believe you are asking your car to do, aftermarket or even 198 rods are overkill. You can rebuild with stock 225 stuff (cheap) and spend all that money/time on headwork to get better performance. That is a nice induction/exh setup.

I like Frank's suggestion of cam. You will want a 2500 RPM stall torque converter to best use it. Shoot for 9.5:1 static comp.

Best,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988


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