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| Turn Signal Switch 64 Valiant https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37353 |
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| Author: | valiantsteed [ Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Turn Signal Switch 64 Valiant |
I too am having the signals go one by one and now the right brake light is gone... I'm removing a nice switch from my donor car. I want the wires that travel down the collum to the plastic connector without cutting them and butt connecting them back together, and for the life of me I cant see how the wires release out of the plastic connector. It's so small inside each hole and hard to see inside and I believe my smallest screwdriver is still too big inside those holes for fishing around for a release... |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You remove the nylon connector block by releasing each individual wire from the block, one at a time. This is achieved by means of a Terminal Extractor Pick (or, if you're in a hurry and don't want to spend money, a darning needle or unbent sturdy paper clip), inserted into the slot at the "front" (connector) end to depress the terminal's lock tab. Then a careful tug of the wire pulls it out the back of the connector block. Draw yourself a diagram of which wire goes to which slot in the connector block. Once you've released all the terminals from the block, tie a long piece of string or twine round the bundle of wires at the very end near the terminals. Withdraw the old switch, which will pull the string up the column. Untie it, tie it round the wire bundle on the new switch, then pull the string to guide the new wire bundle down the column without any of the wires snagging and refusing to show themselves at the bottom. |
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| Author: | valiantsteed [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for telling me about the terminal extractor. I did try the paper clip and got one out Friday evening but since I had to run to a few places Saturday I'd pick one up while I was out. When I got home the terminals came out in a flash. The dirty pins could have been sprayed first to loosen up... I'll do that next time on the convertible. But switch is out and all clean and both sliding pins "click" nicely back and forth (looking like they are making contact.) It wasn't wrapped in electrical tape so I did that and then wrapped the pins in blue tape so to be as thin as possible to fit back down threw that small opening and with a thin nylon string wrapped inside with the end hanging out a few feet. Looks nice. Need to pick up some dielectric grease today and fill it in, never used it before. Is this something that a little coating would be good for the end pins as well? Or leave them clean and shiney? Now I'm just waiting for my directional cam in the mail. I saw your comments about the low quality cams and I had already ordered this one I'm waiting for. The cam in the convertible had been put in a few months after I purchased the car and about 4 months later durning a left turn I could tell something happened and it no longer works. If you ever look on eBay there is a guy in Wisconsin that sells many mopar remakes and thats who I ordered from this time. Got my gas tank and supplies from him, Vansaholic... Nice guy. I'm hoping its good. Something tells me someone on here can tell me...or I'll find out I the next six months. Ha. Part should be here by tomorrow and I'll change it out on the weekend. Thanks. Daniel |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Need to pick up some dielectric grease today and fill it in, never used it before. Is this something that a little coating would be good for the end pins as well? Or leave them clean and shiney?
Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. It's for use where you want tp prevent moisture causing corrosion and unintended circuit paths. It would be an okeh lube to use on the turn signal cam pins where they ride in the detents on the switch body, but the stuff sold specifically as dielectric grease is usually on the stiff/high-viscosity side. I find a tube of Sil-Glyde more generally useful; it's more of a jellylike consistency.For ensuring/improving electrical contact (e.g. on terminals before assembling connectors, on turn signal switch shuttles, etc.) there's just no substitute for Stabilant 22a. Quote: If you ever look on eBay there is a guy in Wisconsin that sells many mopar remakes and thats who I ordered from this time. Got my gas tank and supplies from him, Vansaholic.
I've bought from him. Certainly a nice guy. He doesn't actually make the stuff he sells, he just sells the stuff he sells. Most of it comes from you-know-where-country-that-starts-with-a-"C". Which doesn't necessarily mean it's junk, but it's not being handcrafted with loving care by a Mopar guy in Wisconsin, is all I'm saying.
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