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scarebird brake update
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37738
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Author:  Russ [ Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:17 pm ]
Post subject:  scarebird brake update

Hey,
I have had the scarebird disc conversion on the valiant for more than a year now. Initially i was dis pleased with the stopping power, but now that the friction material is well seasoned the stopping power is excellent.
It stops straight and true with no fade.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

Good info - thanks for sharing!

Author:  Joshie225 [ Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:28 pm ]
Post subject: 

That's cool. Can you tell us what car you have and the kit you used? What pads did you buy to complete the kit?

Author:  Russ [ Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:20 pm ]
Post subject:  update

Oh hi,
Yes the scarebird kit was used on my 72 Valiant, to replace the 9 inch factory set up. It has been in service for about a year I believe, and stops predictably. I used raybestoes semi- metallic friction, Bendix was my personal first choice, but were not in stock, hence the raybestoes.
My spouse likes the way it stops a real lot , which is a surprise as all she ever drove were cars with boosted brakes. This is manual disc/drum.
Scarebird provides the adaptor brackets, and templates, you source the rest of the parts list wherever you can find the best prices.

Author:  radarsonwheels [ Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:46 am ]
Post subject:  I have a scarebird kit too

I got the kit to replace my '72 demon 10" drums. It uses 1990 chevy celebrity rotors and calipers. The car used to need a lot of adjusting to keep stopping straight. Now it doesn't pull when I stop and I don't have to adjust shoes to keep it that way- just hit the slow down pedal.

The downside is that I put on a 'lightweight' m/c from Richard Ehrenburg. It is a nice looking piece, and definitely lightweight but it has a couple downsides. The picky one is that if it is near full the caps don't seal very well. I don't have a show car, so I'm not sweating my paintjob but if fluid can get out then you gotta figure air and moisture can get in. Thats a no-no, right?

The bigger problem is that I think I mismatched the bore size. I am a big guy and I have strong legs so I wanted a firm pedal. The m/c bore is slightly over 1" and you really need to stand on it to get the car to stop. My other dart with a stock replacement m/c from rockauto (the one thats more like $75, maybe not reman) and stock '73 discs stops much harder with less pedal effort. It's a shame the better stopping car has like 80 horsepower and the scarebird car is more like 400...

Also, I had scarebird drill my rotors and they were pretty far off. I had to file them slightly to get the center register to fit over the lazer cut adapter ring that came with them. If you go scarebird don't be afraid to redrill the chevy rotor's bolt pattern yourself with a drill press, it will be fine.

Ok thats it. Hopefully y'all can learn from my mistakes :wink:

Kevin

Author:  rlklaus [ Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:38 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks Kevin.
Have been thinking about going the Scarebird route.
Was looking under the hood of an Aries wagon, the car lost due to an interior fire, the master cylinder looks like a good match for my 66 Valiant. The Aries being about the same weight as the Valiant, and a disc/drum combination, looks like it might be an easy swap to the Valiant.
If I do this and it works well, I'd post pictures of the swap.

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