Slant Six Forum :: rebuild?

My 225 is going to be getting rebuilt by me hopefully in the next few months. This will be my first actual rebuild. I have taken engines apart before, but never put them back

So, my question is since I will be doing all but the machine work my self who makes a good rebuild kit that isn't too expensive. I am guessing the machine work on the block and head, hopefully the crank wont need any, will be around 4-500 bucks so that doesn't leave me too much to play with.

who makes a good rebuild kit that isn't too expensive.

I have been told of two good machine shops around town so far but they are kinda pricey. There is a small shop right down the road from where I live that I plan to check out too. Oklahoma Joe, did you pay 650 total including rebuild kit and machine work? That is a lot lower than I was thinking. And do you know where the rebuild kit came from? (what company) Thanks for the pointers from everyone and I do plan to take my time. I have all winter for the most part and will probably go through the brakes, trans, and rear end while rebuilding the engine. If anyone has any suggestions as to what brand parts to look for or avoid please let me know. I want this thing to last another 30 years.

DO NOT USE WD40.....it cleans the metal and lets it rust ...use a light spray oil instead....keep everything clean and dont forget to torque everything properly...assy lube use lots of...take time double check eveything....enjoy enjoy

keep on roddin'

Where did you get a rebuild kit for 280? All the ones I have been finding are 400 or more for a complete rebuild kit with pretty much everything I would need including the gaskets. How long ago was this when you did the rebuild?

I will leave this up to Joe to answer.

How would I go about specifying the cam specs and head decking? Isn't it better to cc the chambers instead of just decking the head?

You need to know where you stand. and where you want to go. I recommend that you CC your heads to find out what you have. You CAN just pick a number and have the machine shop do that for You. But you still wont know where you are at. I you take off too much then you are screwed and the engine wont do what you want.
I think the head gasket blew and I will probably have to have it shaved some anyway but I'm not for sure.

Any machine shop worth its salt will "true up " the mating surfaces.

If I would need to cc the chambers what would be the optimum size?

Still need to know what you want.

I really don't want anything too far from stock.

OK then how far is too far?

I still want to run a 1 barrel for now as I like the simplicity of the 1920.

Good carb and a lot can been done to the engine and still run this carb. Talk to Aggressive Ted about it.

Why run 198 crank and rods?

He has a 198 Motor.

Do they have a different stroke or are they stronger?

Author:	green1970 [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:44 pm ]
Post subject:	rebuild?
My 225 is going to be getting rebuilt by me hopefully in the next few months. This will be my first actual rebuild. I have taken engines apart before, but never put them back So, my question is since I will be doing all but the machine work my self who makes a good rebuild kit that isn't too expensive. I am guessing the machine work on the block and head, hopefully the crank wont need any, will be around 4-500 bucks so that doesn't leave me too much to play with.

Author:	oklahoma joe [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:59 pm ]
Post subject:
I spent about $650 last year rebuilding mine. pretty much all stock parts. I did all the cheap things to help make more power (reground cam shaft with higher lift, shaved the head (raised compression), ported and gasket matched the head and intake, cc the heads) This was my third motor I have rebuilt and the first one I decided to modify from stock at all. You may want to start with just a stock rebuild and not try to change compression ratios, wild cams or special pistons. Get a good manual and during assemble keep every thing operating room clean. The expensive parts are rebuild kit, valve job, machine work and some special tools. I have found that expensive machine shops are not always the best. Call around and shop for price and ask around to find out who is good. I found a guy that was half the price on the head work. So do some shopping and you will probably save some money. Try to find a good torque wrench, valve spring compressor, ring compressor, plastic gauge, die grinder and carbide burr, degree wheel, and a gasket scraper. Oh when you get your block back from the machine shop clean it with soap and water and completely dry. Then spray it with wd-40 and put a garbage bag over it until your ready to put it together. Joe

Author:	oklahoma joe [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:45 pm ]
Post subject:
Oh yea forgot your original question. The machine shop I used got me a great deal on all the parts I needed and ordered the correct size bearings, pistons, and rings for me. Joe

Author:	Joshie225 [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:40 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: rebuild?
Quote: My 225 is going to be getting rebuilt by me hopefully in the next few months. This will be my first actual rebuild. I have taken engines apart before, but never put them back So, my question is since I will be doing all but the machine work my self who makes a good rebuild kit that isn't too expensive. I am guessing the machine work on the block and head, hopefully the crank wont need any, will be around 4-500 bucks so that doesn't leave me too much to play with. I'm confused. You've never rebuilt an engine before, but you own and know how to operate all the equipment to perform all the machining operations you'll need when completing your rebuild?

Author:	Solotime [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:44 pm ]
Post subject:
He said he will be doing all BUT the machine work.

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Author:	slantsixlancer [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Do your best to enjoy the build..I remember the first rebuild I did. Just couldnt wait to to finish and in my rush to finish, put things together a bit wrong and had to take it appart again...put some music on and measure everything twice...schedule more time then you need...ask lots of questions but most imprtant...enjoy even the hard parts! good luck.

Author:	hantayo13 [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:55 am ]
Post subject:
DO NOT USE WD40.....it cleans the metal and lets it rust ...use a light spray oil instead....keep everything clean and dont forget to torque everything properly...assy lube use lots of...take time double check eveything....enjoy enjoy keep on roddin'

Author:	green1970 [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 5:01 am ]
Post subject:
I have been told of two good machine shops around town so far but they are kinda pricey. There is a small shop right down the road from where I live that I plan to check out too. Oklahoma Joe, did you pay 650 total including rebuild kit and machine work? That is a lot lower than I was thinking. And do you know where the rebuild kit came from? (what company) Thanks for the pointers from everyone and I do plan to take my time. I have all winter for the most part and will probably go through the brakes, trans, and rear end while rebuilding the engine. If anyone has any suggestions as to what brand parts to look for or avoid please let me know. I want this thing to last another 30 years.

Author:	66aCUDA [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:31 am ]
Post subject:
Welcome to the board. You have some Great folks just south of you in North Georgia. Ill bet if you get stuck they could reccomend a shop or answer a few questions. I personally travel 2 hours to get to the machine shop I use. I have used PAW (Proformance Automotive Whse) and EPW (Engine Parts Whse) both have resonable prices. Frank

Author:	green1970 [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:08 pm ]
Post subject:
66aCuda, who is it you are talking about? Do you mean machine shop people or parts people? I will check out the two companies you listed and hantayo13, I will make sure to use a light oil now WD if it is gonna sit and I will stock up on assembly lube too. Thanks for all the help yall.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:20 pm ]
Post subject:	Rebuild kit
Quote: who makes a good rebuild kit that isn't too expensive. Melling Master Kit is one option. "PM" Ceej on for recent feedback on using the kit. FelPro has a great gasket kit if your just looking for gaskets, part #KS 2103 Hastings #687 ring set is a good standard for the SL6. RemFlex RF 6008 for a superior intake and heat stove gasket. RemFlex RF 6006 for a superior manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. Clevite bearings....

Author:	oklahoma joe [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:02 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: I have been told of two good machine shops around town so far but they are kinda pricey. There is a small shop right down the road from where I live that I plan to check out too. Oklahoma Joe, did you pay 650 total including rebuild kit and machine work? That is a lot lower than I was thinking. And do you know where the rebuild kit came from? (what company) Thanks for the pointers from everyone and I do plan to take my time. I have all winter for the most part and will probably go through the brakes, trans, and rear end while rebuilding the engine. If anyone has any suggestions as to what brand parts to look for or avoid please let me know. I want this thing to last another 30 years. Here is what a break down of what it cost. 8.4 compression ratio .060 of the head 3.460 bore 198 crank and rods stock pistons with cast rings Stock cam bumped up to a true .44 intake lift at valve degreed and set 3 degrees retared stock valves with hardened exhast seats ported intake and exhast runners super six intake and exhast gasket mached to head Carter bbd from a v-8 pre emmissions stuff Stock timming chain All for a total of $275 machining, piston pressing, valve job and mill $280 Engine rebuild kit with piston and oil pump $40 Cam regrind $55 supplies (silicone, paint, ect.) Plus or minus a few bucks. I will look up the name of the parts supplier I have used before in california they are very cheap. But he phone number is at work. so it will have to wait until tomorrow. Joe

Author:	oklahoma joe [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:22 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: DO NOT USE WD40.....it cleans the metal and lets it rust ...use a light spray oil instead....keep everything clean and dont forget to torque everything properly...assy lube use lots of...take time double check eveything....enjoy enjoy keep on roddin' WD 40 was originally developed to displace moisture and then prevent rust in the aerospace industry. I use WD 40 because after washing and drying there is still some moisture left on the engine. Especially in humid environments like chattanooga, TN. I believe this is the exact use the product was originally designed for. I have never had rusting issues doing this, but I also have never left a block sitting around for more than about two months. I'm sure either product will work just fine. Just don't leave it naked. Joe

Author:	green1970 [ Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:48 am ]
Post subject:
Where did you get a rebuild kit for 280? All the ones I have been finding are 400 or more for a complete rebuild kit with pretty much everything I would need including the gaskets. How long ago was this when you did the rebuild? How would I go about specifying the cam specs and head decking? Isn't it better to cc the chambers instead of just decking the head? I think the head gasket blew and I will probably have to have it shaved some anyway but I'm not for sure. If I would need to cc the chambers what would be the optimum size? I really don't want anything too far from stock. I still want to run a 1 barrel for now as I like the simplicity of the 1920. Why run 198 crank and rods? Do they have a different stroke or are they stronger?

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Author:	66aCUDA [ Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:52 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Where did you get a rebuild kit for 280? All the ones I have been finding are 400 or more for a complete rebuild kit with pretty much everything I would need including the gaskets. How long ago was this when you did the rebuild? I will leave this up to Joe to answer. How would I go about specifying the cam specs and head decking? Isn't it better to cc the chambers instead of just decking the head? You need to know where you stand. and where you want to go. I recommend that you CC your heads to find out what you have. You CAN just pick a number and have the machine shop do that for You. But you still wont know where you are at. I you take off too much then you are screwed and the engine wont do what you want. I think the head gasket blew and I will probably have to have it shaved some anyway but I'm not for sure. Any machine shop worth its salt will "true up " the mating surfaces. If I would need to cc the chambers what would be the optimum size? Still need to know what you want. I really don't want anything too far from stock. OK then how far is too far? I still want to run a 1 barrel for now as I like the simplicity of the 1920. Good carb and a lot can been done to the engine and still run this carb. Talk to Aggressive Ted about it. Why run 198 crank and rods? He has a 198 Motor. Do they have a different stroke or are they stronger? Shorter stroke with its associated crank. Longer rod. Frank