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Installing cam degree bushings
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38336		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Reed [ Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Installing cam degree bushings
The ones Summit sells for small block Chevies work on our slants, right?

Also, should I be cheap and drill out the cam gear on my drill press at home, hoping the drill bit will center itself in the hole, or should I be picky and have a machine shop drill out the cam gear hole?
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Yep
Yes the chevy one will work, you could probably get it for cheaper by getting one from your local parts house (the Mr. Gasket one, the crane cams bushings...etc...)

You can use your drill press as long as you take the time to clamp it and check it.

-D.Idiot
Author:  Reed [ Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Rob! I'll check the local parts house and figure out a way to clamp something to my drill press using a device other than my hand. :wink:
Author:  66aCUDA [ Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Reed
C Clamps work in a pinch> :D :D
Frank
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:59 am ]
Post subject:  Yep...
Quote:
C Clamps work in a pinch
I used two and my buddies drill press...

Done in 5 minutes...

-D.Idiot
Author:  65Dodge100 [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:01 am ]
Post subject: 
The drill will follow the existing hole no matter what you do. Taking time to center the drill with the existing hole just insures that it doesn’t drill too much oversize.

Just watch while you are starting and make sure the drill isn’t bending to get into the hole. You can get it mostly straight while the drill is not turning, depending on the kind of table adjustments you have anyway.

The way most drill presses are made, you can leave the table loose and the hole will follow the drill instead of vise-versa. You can tighten it down once it's centered.

Danny
Author:  66aCUDA [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 6:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Reed
Set it up with the drill bit in the hole (correct bit size to go into the existing hole) Check that it doesnt deflect when you go in and out. Then change to the new size bit and turn the motor on and drill the hole.
This will insure your lined up as best you can be.
Frank
Author:  Reed [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks everybody! With all these tips I am sure I will be able to do it myself.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:23 am ]
Post subject: 
When it comes time to install the bushing, think through what you're doing very carefully. Draw a picture for yourself showing the direction of cam rotation. It's really easy to get crossed up and install the bushing backwards for what you're trying to do. As you look at the front of the assembled engine, and envision it rotating clockwise, the thick part of the bushing should be behind (trailing, following) the cam pin to advance the cam.
Author:  Reed [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Dan! I appreciate that. My local Baxter Auto Parts had the Comp Cams bushing kit ordered in for me this morning, and my brother's van arrives here tonight. The head and cam pulling will now begin. :wink:
Author:  slantzilla [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just a heads-up, installing a bushing does nothing if you don't have a degree kit. The chains may be stamped as much as 15* off to start with. I have an MP chain that was 2 full teeth off. If I hadn't degree'd the cam I never would have found it. :shock:
Author:  Reed [ Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Degree wheel- check!
Magnetic mount dial micrometer- check!

The last time I was in this motor, I discovered that the MP double roller timing set was actually four degrees advanced as cast from the foundry. However, I will be rechecking everything since I will also be installing a reground cam.
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