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| brake line chemicals , antirusters, whistling dixie, etc. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38377 |
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| Author: | bob fisher [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | brake line chemicals , antirusters, whistling dixie, etc. |
hi sages- have a question for you on a product i dont think exists. when disconnecting metal hydraulic lines from a master cylinder or in the lines to the hydraulic hoses in the front and rear, i have often found them rusted and seized by rust. despite using solvent and trying to work them i usually twist them and or bust the line requiring a larger job to replace them. can this be prevented by any spray juice available? i have never seen anything available like this that would seal and insulate the fittings from rusting and corrosion . uncle moe who fought the axis in the big one told me m1s and thompsons were shipped coated with a product called cosmoline which prevented rust and corrosion in long storage and shipping but doesnt know where to get it these days. if one could simply spray or lightly coat these flare nut fittings , it would seem a lot of work could be avoided next time the fittings have to be separated. any of you aware of such a miracle product or am i just whistling dixie?. regards bob f |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Get a can of spray varathane.....give the area a good clearcoat. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Fingernail polish? |
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| Author: | GTS225 [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 6:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ANTI-SIEZE.....for the next time. The biggest problem with brake lines is that not only does the flare nut rust into the threaded fitting, but also rusts onto the line running through it. If you would give the portion of line in the nut, and the threads of the nut, a coating of anti-sieze, you'd have a much easier time disassembling the next time around. DO NOT put anti-sieze onto the sealing surfaces. Anti-sieze is available in either a nickel or copper based version. Roger |
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| Author: | bob fisher [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | brake line antirust |
thank you sages for your advice. thought of anti sieze and may try it next time. would have to be verycareful to avoid getting it on a mating surface. could since when it is tightened, squeeze into the line and affect the braking pressure. not sure whether it would merely dissolve when mixed with brake fluid. interesting thought reed on using nail polish; curious whether the polish itself could sieze the line over a long time or whether brake fluid would dissolve the polish. dont most barracudas(non sl6 variety) remove the polish nightly? never saw them but are stainless steel break lines available or some other material that is non rustable . do know that copper lines are ng. thanks. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Stainless lines are available. So are Cunifer ones. Any kind of paint (nail polish included) won't seize the fitting but will be easily dissolved by brake fluid; there shouldn't be brake fluid running or dripping down the side of the master, so a drop or two of "extra tough" clear nail polish or a quick spritz of spray clear hardcoat applied to the fittings' threads (after they're installed in the master) would likely do what you want it to do reasonably well. Any kind of petroleum-based substance in the brake fluid is a big problem. Don't take that risk. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
After assembly, I just wash off the fittings with water. The water then dries off, and you're fine. The brake fluid tends to stay on the fittings for quite awhile after assembly (which will happen unless it's a brand-new installation) and will keep absorbing water out of the air, rusting the parts. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Thu Dec 24, 2009 6:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | My apprroach to this problem. |
On all my cars that are daily drivers that might see salt or a lot of splash I use just normal chassis grease above the Flare nut fitting after it gets some threads started into the hose / caliper / wheel cyl / etc. I have found that bu putting a good smattering of grease above the flare on the hardline does not let the elements into the metal between the flare nut and the hard line making it much easier to remove nect time around. Care has to be taken to not get any grease in the line or path of the brake fluid as brake compopnet failure might result. This has worked for me for over 10 years on all my cars that see salt. Also I use a torch and PB B'L aster to free up frozen flare nuts - Usual success - but not always. Good Luck Bob! Greg |
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| Author: | oklahoma joe [ Fri Dec 25, 2009 6:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use a flaring tool (The clamp part )to hold the line and then work the nut back and forth with a lot of penatrating oil. It works most of the time. Joe |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is a good trick Joe, I'll have to try it sometime on my next brake disaster, umm I mean project. Greg |
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