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| My Arm is Sore... Inside Look at a SL6 Head https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38622 |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | My Arm is Sore... Inside Look at a SL6 Head |
What do you do when there is no racing and it is dark & wet outside... Cut open a SL6 cylinder head, lenght-wise!    It is interesting to see how much junk is in the water jacket area. Casting core wires, casting flash, rust scale and "mud"... it is a wonder that water gets thru. DD 
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| Author: | madmax/6 [ Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:54 pm ] |
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When my arm is sore, I dont have sex for a few days. Mark :wink: :lol: |
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| Author: | ceej [ Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:04 pm ] |
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Just imagine how clean that cut would have been with a band saw!  That's pretty telling on how close to water we are when fooling around with the ports! We need those pics tied to the FAQ!(And I know just the guy to do it!)  CJ |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:06 pm ] |
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You're not seriously gonna tell us you did that with a hacksaw…?!!
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:47 pm ] |
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| Doc is gonna look like that guy in Lady in the Water:  I noticed you cut apart a peanut head. I have two loose peanut heads and one loose drool tube head in my garage. I notice that the deck on the peanut heads has more holes around the combustion chambers that are open much bigger than the drool tube head. Did you find that on the head you cut apart? |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:15 am ] |
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Quote: You're not seriously gonna tell us you did that with a hacksaw…?!!
I won't do that...  (I just tried...)Truth... In my travels, I met a person with a large horizontal band saw, he was nice enough to show me how well it works!  It is always fun to see a big machine tool in action, the saw is longer then my car and taller then I stand. (I am 6'2" tall) It can handle a 36" work-piece, "thru the throat" so we clamped the head into it's vise "end-to-end", squared it up and went-in from the sparkplug side. That machine went thru that head like butter, the cut took about 4 minutes. If you look close at the last photo, you can see the saw blade feed marks. A smooth, straight, flat cut with a nice surface finish. DD |
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| Author: | Polara1974 [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Great job!!! Now we need measures of the walls!!!!!!! In the pictures the side walls of the intake and exhaust ports looks so thin ... I assume that this is a STD head without any porting whatsoever. Very similar to the head that I found here in my country out of a 79 Van 4104362. But I ended up using the early spark plug tube stile head for my engine, since the exhaust ports were noticeable smaller on the 4104362 head, and the fact that this heads are not know in our country and the shop was not sure about the "how far is too far-hitting-water" question.... well here is the answer!!! |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Very cool, Doug. Now, how about cutting those two pieces in half - perpendicular cuts to what you did and through the valve guides?? Lou |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:53 am ] |
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Good start, Doc! Now, what we need is a slice-by-slice digitization, a la The Visible Man I'll chip in for some Harbor Freight hacksaw blades. Oh, yeah, is the aluminum head next?
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| Author: | 63Valiant [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:15 am ] |
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Now let's see you put it back together.
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:35 am ] |
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Quote: Now let's see you put it back together.
All the king's horses and all the king's men…
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| Author: | Reed [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:38 am ] |
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Nothing a little JB weld couldn't fix! Read the package, it says a farmer in Texas used it to fix an engine block. 
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| Author: | Tim Keith [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Interesting. It might be practical to cast an alloy head in upper and lower sections, but not bisect the ports. The lower "bathtub" would contain the deck, combustion chambers, valve ports, and ports, pretty much all the main stuff. The heavier casting is the bottom. The upper casting would mostly be a cover over the water jackets. You could mill the water jackets to improve the coolant flow while making the castings simpler. If the lower casting were substantial enough it might not warp too easily when welding the top cover. The top might also just be thick alloy sheet. It would be interesting to mill the top off of a slant head to mock up what such theoretical lower casting might look like. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Interesting. It might be practical to cast an alloy head in upper
Now that's an interesting idea. Seems to me a properly-selected and -made gasket could be devised for the junction.
and lower sections, but not bisect the ports. The lower "bathtub" would contain the deck, combustion chambers, valve ports, and ports, pretty much all the main stuff. The heavier casting is the bottom. The upper casting would mostly be a cover over the water jackets. |
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| Author: | Polara1974 [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:07 am ] |
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Quote: Interesting. It might be practical to cast an alloy head in upper
You got something there!!! With a gasket and RTV put it back together ...and lower sections, but not bisect the ports. The lower "bathtub" would contain the deck, combustion chambers, valve ports, and ports, pretty much all the main stuff. The heavier casting is the bottom. The upper casting would mostly be a cover over the water jackets. Mmmmmm I'm having pretty nasty thoughts about aluminum heads ... |
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