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Best rattle can paint for these engines
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38649		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  blisters [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Best rattle can paint for these engines
Hey All:

Of Rustoleum or Krylon, which has the closest match color to the red/orange, and what's it called?

THANKS!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
See here.
Author:  Blown 70 [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
i've had great success with Mopar Performance paint. No problems what so ever. Plus they are about as close as you will get to the original color.

The Orange I use is Street Hemi Orange P4349216

For Red P4349218

For Redish/Orange Race Hemi Orange P4120751
Author:  Fab64 [ Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
I also used the Mopar paint when I painted mine. It's been on for a year now, and still looks great. I haven't noticed any signs of flaking.

Image
Author:  66aCUDA [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:36 am ]
Post subject: 
The Key is to get it CLEAN before you paint. I use Ceramic Duplacolor as Its easy to come by.
Frank
Author:  wjajr [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:48 am ]
Post subject: 
In general, most paints in a rattle can perform equally as well between brands. Colors may be off a bit, but to be honest dose anyone know just what that forty year old color really looked when factory fresh. New EPA approved paint formulations prevent us from using any of the old formulations, so any color available today is an approximation at best.

Key to a good paint job is the preparation. A surface can’t be clean enough, and a paint room can’t be dust free enough, aside from those two parameters, compatible primer, and top coats applied at temperatures recommended by manufacturer are necessary for a long lasting job. Skip any steps, or “point five rear-end itâ€￾, and you will not be happy with the results in a short time.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
In general, most paints in a rattle can perform equally as well between brands.
That's not my experience at all. There are large differences in quality, workability, and performance/durability. Colour match is another matter; there's not much incentive for accurate, precise colour match on an engine paint selling on the mass market for five bucks a can.
Quote:
Colors may be off a bit, but to be honest dose anyone know just what that forty year old color really looked when factory fresh.
Yep, we do. That's what paint codes are for: to make it possible to match exactly what the paint looked like when new, not what it kinda looks like under some particular light to some guy's eyes 40 years later.
Quote:
New EPA approved paint formulations prevent us from using any of the old formulations, so any color available today is an approximation at best.
Incorrect. Colour matching is wholly independent of VOC regulations. It is no more difficult now than it was in the past to get an accurate match according to a paint code. In fact, it's easier now because of today's more precise computerised paint mixing systems.
Quote:
Key to a good paint job is the preparation. A surface can’t be clean enough, and a paint room can’t be dust free enough
Agreed.
Quote:
aside from those two parameters, compatible primer, and top coats applied at temperatures recommended by manufacturer are necessary for a long lasting job.
IME primer is more a hindrance than a help on engines and other high-temp applications. All the engines and engine components I've painted over the years with primer have wound up much less satisfactory and much less durable than those I've painted without primer.

WJA: If you don't know, don't guess (or at least say "My guess...").

Original poster: If you want precision and accuracy, you either shop upmarket (POR15, Bill Hirsch) or you find a brand that comes out the colour you actually want, or you listen to brand-specific recommendations from people who've tried them rather than baseless assertions from people who haven't.
Author:  wjajr [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:24 am ]
Post subject: 
I should have stated: off the shelf mass market rattle cans such as Duplacolor; Krylon; and other off brands. Rustoelum is some sort of modified enamel that is a bit different from the fast drying previously mentioned paints as it is not as fast drying as them but faster than it was twenty years ago, and has a thicker film when applied to similar surfaces. None of these store brand paints match Hirsch and other restoration supply outfit’s products, and professional formulated paints available from automotive paint suppliers.

I have used many of these store brands with good success over the years if applied per manufactures directions, and the same results with professional products. High temperature, engine, and other special formulations do require different methods of application that is why I implied following directions on the can. Prep work is 95% of any paint project.

SSDan:
[quote]Yep, we do. That's what paint codes are for: to make it possible to match exactly what the paint looked like when new, not what it kinda looks like under some particular light to some guy's eyes 40 years later.[/quote]

As for color match, I have found that factory colors differ between different provisional grade paint companies. I’m not talking about matching an existing 20 year old paint job, but factory color “Aâ€￾ from manufacturer “Bâ€￾ dose not match Manufacture “C’sâ€￾ rendition when freshly applied. They are close, but not the same, and of course never match an existing finish necessitating blending. I went through this drill with my LeBaron, every manufacture had the same paint code, but what came out of the gun looked different, and in one case very different.
Author:  blisters [ Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Great replies and a lot of excellent info- thanks very much to all who wrote (I especially liked reading the thread posted as a link!).

I have already hot-tanked, bead-blasted, washed, and primed the exteriors of the oil pan and valve cover with NAPA's 7220 Self-Etching Primer- I hope that's OK???

If not, I will dutifully blast the primer off. For my situation, I'm only doing new gaskets for a friend, not a restoration. However, may as well do it right, eh?

Thanks again!

-Ken J
Author:  adiffrentcity [ Sun Jan 17, 2010 3:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm a bodyman/painter by trade, and would guess that you will be ok with primer on the valvecover and pan as they are simply stamped sheetmetal like a body panel.
Just don't use too heavy a film with etching primer, less is more, to a point. A light mist should work just fine.
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